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Routes in Flagpole Peak

Jam Session T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kangaroo T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ramp, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Rick Summer & Bill Todd 1974?
Page Views: 714 total · 26/month
Shared By: GizzardJones on Nov 1, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Main Crack up the face of Flag Pole Peak.
2 pitches if you use a 70m. 2nd Pitch 215' to the summit.
P2 OW crux halfway up after sustained liebacks/jams/stems.

Location

Take main trail and find worn out climber trail that goes to Mid Dome base. Continue up to the base of Flag Pole Peak (Upper Left of Mid Dome) 50-70 minute hike depending on your speed.

Protection

Double rack to 5'.
6' (Optional) trad anchors.

Photos

I did the probable FA of this route with Bill Todd in 1974. Definetely the FA of the first pitch and probably the second pitch also since there was a bong with a sling and biner near the crux, presumably from someone else's lower off after an unsuccessful attempt. Anyway a great route. The first pitch had some crumbling rock, but the grunt over the off width overhang was entertaining. The second pitch was the business, clean sustained, and with finishing 5.9 hand and finger crack. Did the route several times back then and since we thought it to be slightly easier than Edge of Night or Generator Crack in Yosemite rated it 10a. Feb 8, 2016
GizzardJones
Rancho Cordova,CA
 
GizzardJones   Rancho Cordova,CA
 
Def seemed pretty darn stiff for 10.A.

possibly 10+ or 10b/c 2nd pitch is the goods. Nov 2, 2015

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