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Routes in The Steeple

Center Route, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
East Face of The Steeple, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Regular Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sail, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
West Corner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 260 ft
FA: Bill Rose and John Rotten
Page Views: 2,031 total, 22/month
Shared By: Milton Mugambe on Jun 23, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This classic route follows the most prominent corner system on the west side of The Steeple. The first pitch although less than memorable, redeems itself before the anchor below the fantastic second pitch. Savor the incredible second pitch's thin hand jams The final squeeze chimney pitch deposits one on an exposed summit stand on top and bust the "Christ Redeemer Move"


This route leaves the large ledge located up and left from the final approach gully. Pitch 1. Climb an easy series of steps leading to a boulder "split" by a handcrack. Climb past the boulder and through a couple of small trees. Go up and left through some low bushes, then climb up and right along a ramp system. Exit left, and climb a verticle, west-facing, hand crack to a sloping ledge. Go up and right to a nice ledge and two-bolt anchor.
Pitch2. Climb the beautiful corner above at the top of the corner section go left(east) along a wide hand crack to a point where you can look up and over to the east side. Follow the north-facing double cracks above 1" to a easy open book and ledge(be sure to protect the follower). Go right along a ledge to a two-bolt anchor. Pitch 3. Drop your gear and grind up the squezze chimney, solo the easy, but incredibally exposed northwest arete of the final summit. Clip the anchors on top and lower to the ledge and two-bolt anchor. Two single rope rappels get you to the base ledge.


Wires and cams to 3" (2)each 3/4" to 2" One 70 meter rope.
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
I thought the final chimney pitch was also good. A gut-sucking grovel up the squeeze to an exciting step across slab finish. Not to be missed. A 0.4 pros the entry moves and a slung horn pros the step across. Once you've gained the 2nd pitch there are many options for additional climbing. May 27, 2014
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
There's only one pitch of really good climbing on this one, but the high grade byproduct of climbing this route is a stellar hangout way up in a Woodfords gully overlooking The Fortress area across the canyon. I'd have to disagree with the rampant stars (three out of five seems about right), but the allure of the obscure does tend to lead to overhype in the estimation of some.

For a fun diversion at the top of the second pitch, head right and over the lip instead of scrambling up the trivial left-trending ramp/hand crack to finish. From here anchor in at an angled ledge boasting some metolius hangers underneath a roof and set off on a 5.11d/5.12a fingers to ridiculous roof crack called Mad Hatter that finishes at the same anchors as the Regular Route's second pitch. At least, around 5.12- is what I thought it was rated. Dan Kennedy (FAist) apparently thinks 5.11c. More accurately, it was 5.11- A0 for me ;). Jul 4, 2013
One of the best areas in a beautiful canyon. Jun 24, 2010