The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This climb starts as for Lady Pillar, see the description of that route and the atached photo. After maybe 10M there are 2 sets of cracks. FOllwo the one on the right to progress upwards into a right-facing corner on steep fingerlocks and laybacks at the finish instead of follwing the more pedestrian low angle flake of the 'lady pillar.' The reward is a better, loger, cleaner route.
Protection
A few of everything to get started, but with a lot of thin-fingers-to-tips gear to finish the route.I 60M rope might not quite get you down. Check your rope, or use a 70M for margin.
Another good route, although there is one section with a chockstone that didn't inspire confidence with gear. I jumped left and then back right to get the solid gear above the chockstone section. Upper part is fun off-fingers and liebacking. Will get you pumped if you don't move fast!
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