|7. The Slabs
This route may rival the 3rd Flatiron as the best easy multi pitch climb in the states. Although the climbing is relatively easy, there are huge runouts (30-50ft) and few features.
P1 (5.0R 100ft) Scramble up to the Launch Pad.
P2 (5.1R 110ft) Angle up and right past a few flakes. (Toilet Bowl Pitch)
P3 (5.2R 150ft) Head straight up past two bolts and a flake mid pitch. Belay on a ledge with large crystals.
P4 (5.3R 100ft) Head straight up passing a few cool pockets. (tricams) Belay in the underlapping crack.
P5 (5.4 130ft) Follow the arching crack, pull the through at an intersecting arch (~60ft) and belay on a ledge. (Lunch Ledge)
P6 (5.5R 120ft) Head straight right past 2-3 bolts, head up the arching crack, pull through at a crack system and belay.
P6 (5.7 120ft) A better pitch heads up and right past some fixed gear and ends at the same location. (Slabs Direct)
P7 (5.2R 80ft) Head up and left and belay on a ledge.
P8 (5.2R 120ft) Continue up on a dike passing an overlap, and belay on a ledge.
P9 (5.2R 150ft) More runout fiction past one bolt to the top.
Descent: Head to your right, and find a wandering trail back to the base. It is probably possible to rap the route with two ropes, if it starts to rain.
Light SR, including some small tricams
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 12, 2008
Fun route! The most memorable part was getting munched by black flies, though. Those buggers are nasty!
|By Adam Wilcox|
From: Candia, NH
May 3, 2009
The single bolt on the last pitch is missing its nut and hanger.
|By Larry S|
Jul 7, 2010
A great intro to easy slabs. We did the whole arch rather than the quartz pocket variation, ample pro in the arch, but it can be a little mossy in spots. Experienced horrific rope drag on the crux pitch above the lunch ledge even with long runners, route seems to wander back and forth alot here. Doubles would be helpful for just that pitch. The 3 pitches following dikes to the top are like stairs.
Edit - Two and a half years later, I realize went off-route above the lunch ledge and did Slabs Direct - 5.7. This explains my rope drag problem.
|By Barrett Stetson|
Oct 4, 2010
Very fun, did the Quartz pocket and Direct variations. The biggest problem on the Direct variation is keeping the rope out of the crack after climbing up past the pin (or bolt? don't remember). It was a struggle getting it out and trying to add a redirect to keep it going back in again. I read somewhere that someone had better luck slotting a nut there just to keep it out, but that's also the nicest handhold too. Still some rope drag too, even doing the Direct variation.
The single bolt was there on the dike near the top, we ended up needing to belay at it. Although the dike is like climbing mini stairs, it was a little sketchy because there was runoff water right down the middle making it a tad slippery (there was heavy rain 2 days prior) and there is no protection for a long run out up there (maybe 100 ft?).
|By lee hansche|
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 1, 2011
i had soooooo much fun with my dad last week simulclimbing standard route... we were just trying to keep moving, not shooting for time but we did it in 19 minutes which i thought was pretty cool considering that the first time we did it years ago it was probably like 5 hrs :)
|By Mike C. Robinson|
From: Rumney, NH
Jul 11, 2011
I'd vote this over The 3rd Flatiron. This route has better climbing for more pitches. The backdrop during New England Autumn is more impressive but you do get a stronger sense of exposure from The 3rd.
|By Steve Moulding|
From: New York
Jun 10, 2012
My first ever multi-pitch lead back in June 1988.
No cams back then. I recall tricams being helpful down low (little pockets where nothing else fit) and I remember the top-out pitches being completely run out. Wouldn't like to do it in the rain.
Great situation, great route!
|By Robert Hall|
May 13, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
I think the Std. Route is significantly harder than the 3rd Flatiron....like maybe 2 or 3 grades: 5.5-5.6 vs 5.3-5.4 The moves at the crux are pretty daunting for a 5.5 leader, especially if not familiar with friction. A closer approximation, difficulty and commitment-wise, would be Red Rocks' Cat in the Hat.
The rock on Whitehorse is a lot more polished (especially the at the crux 'brown-spot & boilerplate'), and gets even more so with a little rain. [I've seen 5.10 leaders turned back by the first 30 feet of normally 5.0 when it was "wet-lichen-slab".
|By Ryan Entwistle|
From: Sonoma, California
2 days ago
I was leading and managed to just barely link-tegether pitches 4 & 5 with a pair of 70m Twin/Double ropes used in Twin technique/configuration (2 people following), but will work the same with a 70m single. While it is "possible" I wouldn't overly recommend it to others unless you are climbing well below your ability level and maybe only if you have done the route before, as you can only clip a few pieces over the entire 230ish feet of climbing and it requires slings on those few pieces including a huge (8ft) one on what is normally the thread-belay anchor at the top of Pitch 4 so the rope can almost run in a straight line. I figured the worst that would happen is I would have to set a gear anchor a bit before the bolts at the tree area instead, but after I slung the tree I removed the previous piece that was keeping the rope from running straight and was able to make it to the regular bolts.
This does allow you to skip the non-ledge sloping belay at the top of Pitch 4, but again, use your own judgement and tie in at the ends without wasting rope.