Standard Route 

Here is another description of the climb:

www.chauvinguides.com/stdguide.pdf

Fun route! The most memorable part was getting munched by black flies, though. Those buggers are nasty!

The single bolt on the last pitch is missing its nut and hanger.

A great intro to easy slabs. We did the whole arch rather than the quartz pocket variation, ample pro in the arch, but it can be a little mossy in spots. Experienced horrific rope drag on the crux pitch above the lunch ledge even with long runners, route seems to wander back and forth alot here. Doubles would be helpful for just that pitch. The 3 pitches following dikes to the top are like stairs.

Edit - Two and a half years later, I realize went off-route above the lunch ledge and did Slabs Direct - 5.7. This explains my rope drag problem.

Very fun, did the Quartz pocket and Direct variations. The biggest problem on the Direct variation is keeping the rope out of the crack after climbing up past the pin (or bolt? don't remember). It was a struggle getting it out and trying to add a redirect to keep it going back in again. I read somewhere that someone had better luck slotting a nut there just to keep it out, but that's also the nicest handhold too. Still some rope drag too, even doing the Direct variation.

The single bolt was there on the dike near the top, we ended up needing to belay at it. Although the dike is like climbing mini stairs, it was a little sketchy because there was runoff water right down the middle making it a tad slippery (there was heavy rain 2 days prior) and there is no protection for a long run out up there (maybe 100 ft?).

i had soooooo much fun with my dad last week simulclimbing standard route... we were just trying to keep moving, not shooting for time but we did it in 19 minutes which i thought was pretty cool considering that the first time we did it years ago it was probably like 5 hrs :)

I'd vote this over The 3rd Flatiron. This route has better climbing for more pitches. The backdrop during New England Autumn is more impressive but you do get a stronger sense of exposure from The 3rd.

My first ever multi-pitch lead back in June 1988.
No cams back then. I recall tricams being helpful down low (little pockets where nothing else fit) and I remember the top-out pitches being completely run out. Wouldn't like to do it in the rain.
Great situation, great route!