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About 40 feet up the hill on the West side of the Bastille, just down from the West Buttress, find a reasonable chalked line ascending up and left to a series of two chunky overhangs. Climb up to the center of the first of these, then move hard left and up past the left side of the second of the two, placing a few cams in under the rooves in horizontals on the way. Clip some fixed gear and move up and right towards a few bolts. The climbing changes here from big moves between big holds at odd angles to big moves between smaller holds at better angles. The climb would be made hardest by forcing a line straight up to the anchor past both bolts, but a side-step here and there makes it feel more like 10a/b.
After clipping the second bolt, step left and ride the face/slab to the anchors above. If you want to descend on a single rope, taks a 60M or longer and rap to the right (uphill). If you have two ropes to descend and have not had enough cimbing, go up an additional 25' to a second set of anchors (5.7). One can traverse to the south from there (5.4) and continue on The West Buttress (5.9 WIDE). The final pitch can finish on The West Buttress(5.7), Hair City (5.9), or the West Face (5.9).
Take a standard rack with cams to 3.5".
The protection is tricky in spots. For the first crux (10d), underclinging left under a roof there are a few so-so cams to be placed in an uneven crack. For the second crux (10d, or easier), you have a bolt just below you. Some say this is S, but the bolt is not far away. The face above is certainly runout, but the grade is closer to 5.8 by the time you are far from the bolts. The route could produce some real thumper falls, and someone could get hurt. This route should not be taken lightly.
BETA PHOTO: The north and west faces of the Bastille.
Scoping out the moves on Rain.
Derek Hersey 3rd-classing Rain.... Old photo, poor...
Stan Lanzano on the undercling section.
At the start.
Making it Rain!
After the 1st crux. Thanks for the photos, Jez!
|By Steve Levin|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2001
It is possible to climb up from the first bolt to a bulge (skip bolt 2), then left up a steep arete to the anchors. This direct finish 5.10b, great climbing, and may warrant an R rating.
|By steve dieckhoff|
Nov 1, 2001
I use a couple of the smallest TCU's at the first set of overlaps and then a #3 Camalot in the middle of the larger bulge. This can be placed before committing yourself to the underclings and I think using a full sling on it is a good idea. I don't think going to the second bolt is the best way to go. The route was done for many years by going straight above the first bolt. The second bolt seems superfluous and misleading, it was replaced relatively recently and tends to lead you around to the anticlimatic lower-angled face to the right. The direct finish is brilliant. The difficulties ease quickly and the holds are positive but the climbing is steep and unprotected. I've thought that continuing the pitch by going left around the corner and heading up the NW CORNER would be a good thing to do but haven't done it yet. A fall from the crux of that would be spectacular. If you are attracted to SHINE be advised there is some loose rock up there.
|By Joe Collins|
Jun 28, 2002
Awesome! Looking at the routes on the Bastille in the database, it seems that folks are awfully stingy with stars for this formation. I give it 3 (or at least 2 and a half) stars. The gear is sparse though actually pretty good for the cruxes. However, getting to the 2nd bolt, which felt like the crux to me, is a bit spicey.
|By Rob Kepley|
Jul 30, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R
Fun movement with spicy run-outs. This climb definitely has two distinct crux sections. A 60 meter rope will work fine if you swing uphill when rapping off.
|By Phil Lauffen|
Aug 13, 2011
Not 'R' rated without the direct finish, but be a solid 5.10 climber so you don't get freaked by the 5.8 and 5.9 sections with sparse gear.