If you are looking for beginner sport routes, then look no further. The Parking Lot Wall is a mecca for easy-to-moderately-hard sport routes that remains in the sun for the majority of the day.
Conveniently situated behind the main parking lot, the PLW is host to stellar full-length 5.6s and 5.8s (Glory Jeans, and Chloe's Breakfast Special, for example), as well as short, testy 5.9s (Egg McMeadows). Climbers can also find instant gratification from the steeper, pumpier side of Rumney by climbing the forearm-inflating route Espresso (10d), as well as 100% Columbian (11c), both located on the rightmost side of the cliff.
This crag sees the MOST small/large group traffic and can be extremely crowded on a busy weekend!
Getting There
Park in the main parking lot for Rumney. Look up and you'll see the cliff in plain view. The trailhead is directly behind the information board. A 1-minute jaunt uphill will bring you to the base of Espresso. The majority of the routes are to the left.
The first (and steepest) climb you encounter at the height of the climbers trail. In just 60 feet of climbing, Espresso has easy slab climbing, a series of tricky moves to surmount a bulge, and a fun line of juggy moves right before you encounter a brief, but crimpy crux.The bolts are well-placed, the climbing is fun, and the falls are clean and safe. ...[more]
The Parking Lot Wall
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