Chain Reaction 5.12c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12c [details] |
| FA: | Alan Watts, February 1983 |
| Season: | spring and fall |
| Submitted By: | jonah on Jan 24, 2006 |
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Bryan making the end look nice and casual.
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Description You can't miss this arete, just left of Darkness At Noon and Heinous Cling. One of the most fun and photogenic routes at Smith (and maybe the whole U.S.). Four bolts lead up the arete, with funky pinching, scumming, crimping and pocket pulling to get through the technical crux between the second and third bolts. The redpoint crux is the sports action throw over the roof at the top, though.
Protection Bolts with anchors at the top.
The barndoor swingin', arete pinchin', foot flaggi...
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step 1: Hang your way up the most famous climb at ...
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The ceremonial victory whipper. Possibly not the ...
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Bob Horan on Chain Reaction circa 1987.
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Kayte showing us all how they roll on the East Coa...
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I think this guy goes to UofO, but that's a guess ...
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See? UofO.
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The sweetest line.
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Pulling the lip on my redpoint
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| Comments on Chain Reaction |
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By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 24, 2006
rating: 5.12c
| I've fallen off of this route more times than I'd care to admit. I've pulled through the lower crux plenty of times, only to fall off of the dyno over the lip. It's a classic though! One of these days I'll get around to sending it... |
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Berkeley, CA
Jul 19, 2006
| When I was there, there were fixed draws on the route, and only after going up 15 feet to the first draw did I realize just how BAD the draws were. You may want to bring your own, as I'm not sure how many MORE big falls the bolt in the crux can withstand. Above the first crux pulling into the dyno move is a long ways above the bolt protecting the move.
I've pulled through the first crux, and then wanked above it. Then I've cheated through the crux and nailed the dyno, but I just can't seem to link them. ARRRGGGHHH!!! Maybe next time.... |
By Ryan Palo
From: Bend, oregon
Oct 30, 2006
rating: 5.12c
| Rumor has it that the key dishes on the right face are drilled. I'm trying to find out if this is true. |
By Alan watts
Feb 2, 2009
| I haven't been on the route in a couple decades, but nothing was drilled on the first ascent (except the bolt holes). I doubt if anyone came back and modified anything later, so chalk this one up as a baseless rumor. The one finger pocket on the right wall just below the roof wasn't discovered until a few years after the first ascent. Maybe that's where the rumor got started. |
By Ryan Palo
From: Bend, oregon
Mar 3, 2009
rating: 5.12c
| Alan, I am honored that you responded to my post. Thank you for clearing that up. |
By skinny legs and all
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 22, 2013
| The first one day ascent of Chain Reaction was by Geoff Weigand. This sort of distinction was important in the 1990's. |
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