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The Optimator
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"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar 
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Annunaki 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Keith Reynolds & ???
Season: Shadey, Ok in warmer temps.
Page Views: 15,050
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2005
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Anunnaki. Photo by Krischa.

Description 

This climb is found by following the trail right until it goes behind the leaning Annunaki Pillar. Just as you exit this, you will see a 3" crack that thins to 1" as it climbs 50' zig-zagging wildly through clings on it's way to a set of anchors. This is on the underbelly of the leaning pillar that faces the wall and is one of the steeper splitters in the creek, albeit a short route.
Climb up perfect hands for the first half of the route and get ready to gymnastically gun for the top before getting pumped. You may find the route easy for it's assigned grade, but may also find that it is more or less face climbing the diagonal features of the crack, toe hooking, back-stepping and flagging off of the features than it is about jamming. Thus, it is likely easier for the strong-shouldered and long-armed, and hand size might not matter as much as for other climbs.


Protection 

Camalots: two #2's for the easy start. One #1 for the transition to hard moves before the chalked horizontal. Two #.75 for the hard climbing. One #.5 for the finishing moves after the crux. Slings for the anchor.



Photos of Annunaki Slideshow Add Photo
Leon getting some air time on Anunnaki.  What a fun climb!
Leon getting some air time on Anunnaki. What a fu...
good route perspective
good route perspective
yes
yes
Top of Annanuki
Top of Annanuki
Just starting the crux
Just starting the crux
Backside of a pillar!  Nice find.
Backside of a pillar! Nice find.
Chris flashing the route
Chris flashing the route
Firing up Anunnaki.
Firing up Anunnaki.
Max Rodatz, on sighted Annunaki with grace and ease.
Max Rodatz, on sighted Annunaki with grace and eas...
Annunaki name plaque, on the left underside of a huge block against the base of the route.  Photo by Rick.  18 Apr 2014.
Annunaki name plaque, on the left underside of a h...
Anunnaki
Anunnaki
Kre starting up the route
Kre starting up the route
anunnaki
anunnaki
I-forget-who follows Anunnaki in 2005. Photo by Tony Bubb.
I-forget-who follows Anunnaki in 2005. Photo by To...
Katie Sheehan with some fancy footwork smoothly climbs Annunaki
Katie Sheehan with some fancy footwork smoothly cl...
GoPro sequence shot of "Anunnaki", climber Mike Keegan
GoPro sequence shot of "Anunnaki", climber Mike Ke...
Anunnaki2
Anunnaki2
Falling from the chains.
Falling from the chains.
Leading Anunnaki
Leading Anunnaki
In May 2011
In May 2011
RP of Annunaki.  Photos by Jason and Rick.  18 Apr 2014.
RP of Annunaki. Photos by Jason and Rick. 18 Apr...
Comments on Annunaki Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 21, 2014
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Oct 6, 2006

If you are a strong sport climber or boulderer, this is the route to do at the Creek so that you can say "I climb 5.12 crack." The entire middle of this climb is bouldery, powerful moves between good holds that are formed as the crack zigzags. There is still a final fingerlock move at the anchors, however.

Definitely one of the softer .12a's at the Creek, in my opinion.

By Josh Gross
Nov 6, 2006

FA Keith Reynolds

By chris Kalous
Nov 8, 2006

A buddy and I climbed this route a couple years before the new book came out so we didn't know the rating. We casually rated it middle 5.11. If this thing is 5.12- then Optimator is .14a. I agree that if you don't sport climb, it may seem harder. I have watched people climb it straight in and get pumped out of their gords in the 1st 20'.

By Jonas Wiklund
Dec 12, 2007

Cool route, a lot different from most other routes in Indian creek in that you actually need to be able to climb face. The crack-climbing part of the route is 5.9/5.10 or so.

By Clay Rardon
From: Morgantown, WV
Feb 17, 2008
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Hootie freakin hoo. This is a great climb, and shady for those late summer days.daze.

By Dave Brock
May 19, 2008

Great short overhanging route. Definitely NOT 5.12. Probably 5.11b/c.

By karcbr
May 21, 2008

originally thought 11+, being the first person to climb it - but on-sight basically after removal of a large flake about midway, i think has merit. No rehearsal.

By Monkey Den Climber
From: moab, utah
Sep 2, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

u guys r on crack if u think it is 5.11 or even close to a sport climb! go back to the gym and keep your chalk off our rock.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

certainly one of the most unique routes at the creek. amazing movement, perfect pro, and great setting.

As far as the rating is concerned, 11+ seems fair, but as everything else at the creek it is very style (not hand size) dependent.

By Mike
From: Phoenix
Nov 5, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Fun stuff regardless of the rating.

By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Jun 2, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Guy I was climbing with says he pretty much always onsights hard 11s. He tried twice to pink-point this after a TR rehearsal, and fell once both times. So I think 12a is fair.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 24, 2010

One of the more awesome little pitches in the Creek! If I wasn't breathing so hard after sending it first go, I am sure I would have been giggling... Maybe I was... 5.Pumpy/Fun+

By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

While the crack climbing is easy, the moves near the top, especially the final layback and moves on the jugs and into the last finger crack, would warrant a 5.12a grade at most sport crags. I know grades are stout at the creek and a lot of people who climb here are crushers, but I think this is a fair albeit slightly soft 5.12.

By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Oct 1, 2012

I won't downgrade it for people, but when I got it onsite, I had thought it was 5.11b, even though the previous nitearound the campfire everyone exclaimed how heinous it was.

As for face climbing. What faceclimbing. I did it straight in and thought it was an easy way of doing it.

By wehlhung1
Mar 9, 2013

blowin the chains on this thing led to the biggest winger of my life.

By Doug Fulford
Mar 26, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

One of the two bolts at the top is loose - you can wiggle it with your fingers. It's the silver ring bolt that is loose, not the one with the chain. It should probably be replaced ASAP. I have to wonder, given the overhanging location of these bolts and the nature of sandstone, if glue-ins would be a better choice.

By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
2 days ago

a striking zigzagging line with pumpy gymnastic fun. just awesome

the name plague at the base reads "Annunaki" as opposed to "Anunnaki" in the books

right anchor bolt still loose