Young, Blonde, and Easy
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 3.3 from 21 votes
Type: |
Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
Fixed Hardware
(7) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,733 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Dougald MacDonald on Aug 1, 2010 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Young, Blonde, and Easy is a terrific mixed route left of The Shield, just about where the trail arrives at Lower Peanuts. Spot a couple of fixed pins along a short, very thin crack about 45 feet up. This is the start of the hard climbing. Make your way to the first knifeblade (not hard and reasonably protected), back up the KB if possible, and head up the thin flake crack, placing reasonably good small RPs and tiny wires. At the top of the crack, you can clip a better pin and soon a bolt. A desperate mantel gains a sloping stance. Puzzle your way up a shallow corner past another bolt and pin to reach the anchor. Lower/rappel.
Despite the pins and bolts, this feels very much like a typical Eldo trad lead. The cruxes are puzzling, but if you're good on your feet you may be able to hang out and decipher the moves. On the other hand, this is also one of those slabby climbs that manages to leave your whole body feeling worked.
Despite the pins and bolts, this feels very much like a typical Eldo trad lead. The cruxes are puzzling, but if you're good on your feet you may be able to hang out and decipher the moves. On the other hand, this is also one of those slabby climbs that manages to leave your whole body feeling worked.
Photos
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