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The Bastille - W Face
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Your Mother S 

Your Mother 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Colin Lantz
Fixed Hardware: 7 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 12,777
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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Air on Your Mother. Photo: Bob Horan.

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  • Description 

    Your Mother climbs the painfully obvious overhang that juts above the descent ramp on the west side of the Bastille. Access the route either via the steep climber's trail along the west face of the Bastille or walk a flat half mile along the Fowler Trail from the Rattlesnake Gulch parking lot.

    This route, which climbs well-chalked underclings out the big purple overhang left of Neon Lights, often has in situ draws, facilitating the heinous last clip. Six bolts take you to double-bolt anchors. While very public, this is certainly one of the cleanest and most spectacular sport routes in the Front Range.

    I once saw a photo of the route in a Feng Shui book that described the rock as a "benevolent frog spirit." Look at it from the top of the canyon and you'll see what I mean.

    Protection 

    This is entirely a sport route, though you may be able to place a shaky piece before the first bolt if you're gripped. A #2 Camalot should be sufficient to anchor your belayer on the ledge.


    Photos of Your Mother Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Such a sick rock climb!
    Such a sick rock climb!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Your mother!
    Your mother!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jordan Schaeffer entering the crux on a wet day in...
    Jordan Schaeffer entering the crux on a wet day in...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bob Horan on 3rd ascent of Your Mother.
    Bob Horan on 3rd ascent of Your Mother.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Cover of High Over Boulder, 5th edition.
    Cover of High Over Boulder, 5th edition.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Brian K. making it look easy!
    Brian K. making it look easy!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Colin Lantz, FA of Your Mother, 1988.
    Colin Lantz, FA of Your Mother, 1988.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Horning about to hit the crux and send it on...
    Jason Horning about to hit the crux and send it on...
    Rock Climbing Photo:
    BETA PHOTO
    Rock Climbing Photo: At top, two of the old bolts from Your Mother, and...
    At top, two of the old bolts from Your Mother, and...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ben and Boulos on Your Mother.
    Ben and Boulos on Your Mother.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sending Your Mother, 2009.
    Sending Your Mother, 2009.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Firing the Crux
    Firing the Crux

    Comments on Your Mother Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 19, 2015
    By Nate Weitzel
    Mar 27, 2002

    Spectacular route on beautiful stone. Good moves that are actually quite moderate lead you to a painfully tough throw at the end. Fun route with great fall when you miss the crux move!!!
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 3, 2002

    For full entertainment value, after sending the route lower off and down-clean the draws- at the lowest bolt have your belayer give you a touch of slack and then let go...good training for Elitch's Amusement Park.

    PS The perfect place to be for late afternoon sun.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Aug 13, 2002
    rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13

    Careful up there. The larger of the two holds by the 5th bolt is crunching and creeking so loud that your belayer can hear it. I had my doubts- I tried to work the crimper next to it and couldn't pull the move that way. Eventually, I got pumped and yarded on it anyway. It did hold me, but I would approach it with caution, if I tried again.

    I think it is also the 5th bolt that is almost shattered out as well. There is no danger of hitting the ground if it were to pull, but you might get slapped in the head with a chunk of rock.
    By willem
    May 24, 2003

    FYI...the last in situ draw has a sticky carabiner. I will replace it next time I am up there, but how do people feel about a wire gate?
    By Michael Sprague
    May 29, 2003

    Willem, feel free to change that last sticky biner up there. Be warned that everything goes back with me when I take my draws down :) So, please replace it with a Petzl bent gate!
    By Michael Sprague
    Jun 9, 2003

    I just wanted to thank the jerk(s) who stole my bottom two draws. Too bad you weren't strong enough to steal the rest!
    By Ken Cangi
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Jul 26, 2005

    Classic Eldo-style sport climbing at its best. The position is spectacular. This route gets right to the point in a short distance.
    By Joshua Merriam
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 25, 2008

    Thanks for the replacement work. I've been trying this route a bit lately. It is way hard to clip that last draw. I just skip it, but alas I fell reaching for the anchor anyhow. I'll go back and get it next time.

    The last bolt seems further away than all the previous ones. It makes sense to me to move it down 16 inches or so. Good idea!
    By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
    Administrator
    From: ABQ, NM
    Oct 17, 2008

    Great way to finish any route on the Bastille. I do it almost every time I climb up there.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Oct 25, 2008

    An interesting debate at the ACE site. Colin stated directly that the bolt in question was a mistake but many said it added to the "character" of the route. Thanks Matt for at least offering to fix the problem.
    By Colin Lantz
    From: Nederland, CO
    Jul 27, 2012
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    Did the FA on August 1, 1988. On a historical note, I am pretty sure that this was the first new route put up in Eldo with the bolts being placed with the aid of a power drill (Bosch Bulldog).
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 12, 2014

    Wow, this route is really fun. I had for some reason or another overlooked this route even though I wanted to do it years ago. Great flowly climbing on mostly jugs to a really fun finish and huge whip potential. Sack up and take the whip, it's really exciting with stellar position. I'm just plain impressed.
    By Ebeth
    Oct 19, 2015

    Just went up this route yesterday-- terrific! Holds feel a bit creaky, but nothing came out on me.

    Side note-- the last bolt before the anchors looks quite loose, probably due to more than a few whippers. Could use a little love next time someone is up there.

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