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Mary's Bust - main buttress
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Disneyland T,S 
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Lie Detector S 
Mary's Jugs S 
Mary's Tricks S 
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Mary's Tricks 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Wright, Mark Tarrant, May, 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,056
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Megan, over and done.


Mary's Tricks begins on the improbable flake system on the west side of Mary's Bust. A tricky start gives way to moderate climbing on a system of well-featured plates. Nice moves on solid stone. The starting flakes look as though they should be friable but in fact are very solid. Crux is early.


This is left and just uphill from the start to Proud Mary.


Eight draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos of Mary's Tricks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Megan closing down.
Megan closing down.
Rock Climbing Photo: Megan slipping by the crux.
Megan slipping by the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Megan Lewis climbing into the shadows on a final l...
Megan Lewis climbing into the shadows on a final l...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me at the crux section of M's T.
Me at the crux section of M's T.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brent getting through the crux on Mary's Tricks.
Brent getting through the crux on Mary's Tricks.

Comments on Mary's Tricks Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joel Larner
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 29, 2008

This is a fantastic short route. Great moves at the crux come after the 2nd bolt then it backs off a good bit. Above the crux it's all big solid jugs, but don't be lulled as it is sustaining and can still pump you up finishing it out.
By John Dubya
Jun 8, 2012

So far this is my favorite route at Mary's...probably because its overhanging with mostly good holds and solid rock, which is atypical for this area full of technical and sometimes crumbly slab. Do it!
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Feb 14, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Wow, super nice route. Short crux, but fun all the way to the top. 10+/11- seems fine.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Aug 14, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is a fun route, but I wish you could clip the third bolt before doing the crux. There is a great jug to clip from but you are a ways above the 2nd bolt when you latch it. The crux has small hands and feet.
By Mike Wilkinson
From: Lexington, KY
Jul 5, 2017

Great climb! Felt like the rock on this route was much better than the routes around to the right. Worth the hike up the hill.

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