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Ben Wyse > Comments
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Nov 2, 2025
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11/1-25 I installed a bolt on the upper section since the fixed hex kept getting stolen. The route is now…
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Jan 1, 2025
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For those of you concerned about rusty chain, check out this video! youtube.com/shorts/nxDpZPljhoc I use…
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Dec 18, 2024
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On the drive to Buzzard it was still sprinkling occasionally after a night of heavy rain. I arrived in the…
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Nov 28, 2024
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The correct name is "Cockjob"
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Nov 26, 2024
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If you avoid 2 big horns that I marked with a red X and climb straight up the face to the anchor under the…
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Nov 23, 2024
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To make a nice long pitch, link this with the crux pitch of West Pole.
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Nov 20, 2024
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On 10-28-95 I climbed the route with Mike Nelson. After the 3rd bolt on the second pitch I didn't traverse…
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Nov 13, 2024
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Queen Understood Environmentally Sensible Transportation (QUEST). Listen to track four of the 1978 album "…
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Sep 18, 2024
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Actually, Doug, she's not backclipped. Once you lead the route you will understand. As she moves out and…
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Aug 5, 2024
Shenandoah & NW…
> Hidden Rocks
> (4) Hidden Roofs
> Jungle Gym "monkey ba… (5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)
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We staged this by having Wade unclip Martha from the 2 bolts and the piton on the bottom of the route as he…
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Jul 10, 2024
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Clipping the first bolt on the extension with an alpine draw is a great idea. Hidden Roofs has a multitude…
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Jun 9, 2024
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Tova, The nature of this sandstone is very different from some of the varieties out west. You can climb th…
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Jan 25, 2024
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All the haze is from the Canadian wildfires from summer '23.
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Dec 20, 2023
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By just smacking the rock with the butt of my palm, pulling on holds and prying a bit with my nut tool I cl…
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Dec 17, 2023
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Brought a wire brush to clean some lichen on the upper 1/3 of the route. After climbing it I rapped off to…
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Oct 20, 2023
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For folks closely observing the rope situation, I do a lot of rope soloing and my first top rope ascent of…
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Oct 6, 2023
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The vegetation at the base of the climb in the picture is mostly poison ivy. It was all cut back and many…
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Oct 4, 2023
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10/4/23 Wade Banks and I brought clippers long sleeved pants/shirt and gloves today. We spent the first 2…
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Sep 15, 2023
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At least 4 hours of cleaning have been invested in Dirty Hooker over the past 3 weeks and the line is no lo…
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Aug 14, 2023
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To access the ledge you can climb Flower Sermon (which would be hard with a backpack!) or climb the bottom…
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Jul 29, 2023
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Thanks for replacing those! I don't think I will lead that route ever again, but the brave souls who do wi…
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May 18, 2023
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Named for the cool tree that used to live on the ledge. A heavy and wet snow load cracked the main trunk a…
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May 7, 2023
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Another cool direct start climbed by the Keiser brothers! The upper slab of has been led on gear as one of…
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Apr 16, 2023
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Bolt added just above the lip of the roof on 4-16-23. The Coyote face can be climbed in a myriad of ways a…
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Apr 10, 2023
Shenandoah & NW…
> Hidden Rocks
> (4) Hidden Roofs
> Roofied Piano Man (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13)
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If you climb the traverse under the roof a bit past the "off route" red line shown in the photo, you can pu…
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Apr 1, 2023
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Hilarious, he must have set up the TR and sent the Girl Scout up for the first ascent.
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Feb 7, 2023
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Botching the crux used to guarantee broken bones on the slab below. I led that route twice over the years…
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Nov 24, 2022
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First ascent was Lester Zook
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Nov 6, 2022
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Like all the routes I have done, this was established as a top rope solo. When I got done I coiled my rope…
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Nov 6, 2022
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Feels hard for 5.9
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Nov 5, 2022
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Easy for 5.8. I would call it 5.7.
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Oct 30, 2022
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It's 10 bolts, plus the anchor. I didn't bring enough, so I had to skip one. Better once you get past the…
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Oct 27, 2022
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The huge block above Martha in the second picture is now laying on the ground. Some folks felt nervous abo…
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Oct 19, 2022
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Thanks to Lleyton Stutzman who spent a couple hours one day helping me roll huge boulders off the ledge bel…
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Oct 11, 2022
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This route provides a difficult direct start to PItons and Tetons. Pitons and Tetons goes straight up the…
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Sep 22, 2022
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When I led this route I thought it was just a "typical" R rated 5.10 slab. I soon realized it was in a mor…
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