Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Ben Wyse 10-6-22
Page Views: 231 total · 8/month
Shared By: Ben Wyse on Nov 6, 2022
Admins: Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Climb either the Friend from Kansas corner or Coyote face.  From the top of the corner, step right a move and climb past two bolts through overhanging rock above the corner to a two bolt anchor with chains/carabiners.  It is most straightforward to lower from here.  When I first did the route on TR it went all the way to the top but rock quality declines in the upper 8-10 feet, so the route got abbreviated.  You can pull the roof immediately above the two bolt anchor, but then you have to set a gear belay and eventually retrieve that anchor after to bring up your partner and rappel off.   

Location Suggest change

A short bit of steep climbing above the big Friend from Kansas corner.  

Protection Suggest change

Trad gear for either the Friend from Kansas corner (bigger pieces needed) or Coyote face (mostly small nuts and cams).  Then 2 bolts to a top anchor with chains/carabiners.  

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