Elevation: 3,123 ft
GPS: 38.552, -78.311 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 346,681 total · 1,815/month
Shared By: reddirt on Dec 6, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath

Description

Old Rag is the traditional climbing crown of Virginia. For those willing to brave the somewhat lengthy approach with a full rack and rope, gorgeous single pitch, Joshua Tree-esque granite awaits you. Classic splitters, corners and faces on very old and bomber rock define this area. There are a few routes that go for two pitches, but not many. The same can be said for bolted routes- they are sparse and most require the augmentation of traditional gear.

The climbing at Old Rag offers plenty of opportunity for adventure. Choose wisely, because an injury here requiring a rescue is quite an involved and arduous procedure. Be cautious.

There is a great resource for more informationHERE.

Good non-climbing info at: hikingupward.com/SNP/OldRag/

Getting There

Directions from Google Maps;daddr=38.57036+-78.28705&submit2.x=47&submit2.y=7

From Washington DC metro area, outer loop of beltway:

Take exit 49 to merge onto I-66 W toward Front Royal/Manassas 21.7 mi.

Take exit 43A to merge onto Lee Hwy/US29 S toward Gainesville/Warrenton 11.5 mi

Take the US29 Bus/US211 W exit toward Luray/Warrenton/US-15 Bus0.2 mi

Merge E Lee Hwy/US-211 W/US-29-BR S Continue on US-211 W/US-29-BR S 1.8 mi

Turn right at Frost Ave/US-211. Continue to follow US-211 27.0 mi

Turn left at Berryville Pike/US-522 0.1 mi

Turn left at Main St/US-522. Continue to follow US-522 0.7 mi

Turn right at Fort Valley Rd/VA-231 7.3 mi

Turn right at Sharp Rock Rd 1.2 mi

Turn right at Nethers Rd 2.2 mi

Large Parking lot will be on left. There are also ~10 parking spots at the trailhead.

Parking fees may be required unless you have an annual SNP $20? or NPS/America-the-Beautiful $80 pass.


NOTE: AS OF MARCH 2022 YOU MUST RESERVE AN OLD RAG DAY USE TICKET TO BE ANYWHERE ON THE MOUNTAIN. 

https://www.recreation.gov/ticket/facility/10088450

PLEASE TAKE THE TIME TO LET THE PARK SERVICE KNOW HOW YOU FEEL ABOUT THIS NEW POLICY.

***THIS PARKING ABOVE IS THE HIKER PARKING. IT ADDS ALMOST AN EXTRA MILE AND A FEW HUNDRED EXTRA FEET OF ELEVATION AND EXTRA 4TH CLASS SCRAMBLING TO YOUR APPROACH- BUT IT IS FUN! IF YOU WANT THE CLIMBER'S APPROACH, SEE BELOW.***

Take route 231 (whether coming from North or South) to route 670 (Old BlueRidge Turnpike). Follow this to the small, one intersection town of Syria, VA. From here, follow Weakley Hollow Road all the way to Berry Hollow Rd (it actually turns into Berry Hollow Road at some point) until you reach the Berry Hollow Parking lot. You'll have a small river on your left most of the way. You'll also pass White Oak Canyon on your left. When you get to Berry Hollow parking, you won't be able to go any further. Parking is limited. Get there early, don't block anyone in, don't take up two spots, and no fee required. Hike up the fire road and take your first right at the sign. In no time you'll be at Old Rag Shelter, then you'll reach Byrd's Nest Shelter, then it's just a quick jaunt to the summit from there.  Here's a Google Maps link to Berry Hollow parking: Berry Hollow

179 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Old Rag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 39
Pure Fun
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 35
The Dobie Gillis Route
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 27
Chasm Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 121
Strawberry Fields
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 3
The Eagle's Gift
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 30
Report to Sickbay
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 38
Bushwhack Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 53
Oh My God Dihedral
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
Good Friday
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
Duck Walk
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 19
Sunset Crack
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 3
When Natural Law Fails
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
 4
The Crackin
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Swan Song
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
The The
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pure Fun Summit Crags
 39
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
The Dobie Gillis Route Skyline Wall (PATC Wall)
 35
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Chasm Crack Reflector Oven
 27
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Strawberry Fields Reflector Oven
 121
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Eagle's Gift Eagle's Gift
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, Sport
Report to Sickbay Reflector Oven
 30
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Bushwhack Crack Wall That Dreams Are…
 38
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Oh My God Dihedral Middle God's Area-Left
 53
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Good Friday Wall That Dreams Are…
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Duck Walk Skyline Wall (PATC Wall)
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Sunset Crack Sunset Walls > Lower Sunset Wall
 19
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
When Natural Law Fails Reflector Oven
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
The Crackin Reflector Oven
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
Swan Song Wall That Dreams Are…
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
The The Wall That Dreams Are…
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Old Rag »

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