Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,060 total · 35/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Aug 10, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

Fun, varied, grippy granite. This route is an overlooked classic, even for Old Rag. My memory of the crux included knock-kneed funky stems and tips locks with good gear pulling out of the chimney to my immense relief-my good piece was the grey TCU. Worthwhile and fun.

Location

When descending into the Reflector Oven, bear right along the wall, passing underneath Strawberry Fields, until the wall makes a 90 degree turn. The corner and chimney at this sometimes-wet corner is what you're looking for.

Protection

Cams+nuts with TCUS

Photos

franciscov
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10a
franciscov   Albuquerque, NM
  5.10a
5.10- very safe and once a lot of climber climb it it will be a great route to the top. Also there is now anchors at the top. Sep 17, 2007
ARMoss
  5.10c
ARMoss  
  5.10c
Great route and great pro up to the anchors, and looks just as good (and a little easier?) all the way to the top. Climbed the first ~15 feet above the anchors, but the moss was so thick and wet in the crack that I thought there was a good chance my pro would blow on a fall - hard to tell whether you're cammed on rock or not. Sep 16, 2013
Fun route that protects extremely well.

I'd put this at 5.10a. It's nowhere as strenuous or difficult as Oh My God Dihedral. Feb 28, 2016