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Routes in Wall That Dreams Are Made Of

April Fool AKA Jerry's Kid's T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Banana Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bushwhack Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bushwhack Face TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bushwhack Toprope TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Good Friday T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Swan Song T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
The, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Greg Collins
Page Views: 6,181 total, 49/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Aug 10, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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23 Opinions

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Description

Fun, solid hand crack. Depending on your hand size, the crux could be the bouldery start, the wide funkiness in the middle, or the thin hands at the top. Hexes work great on this route and lighten your load-I used my#3,3.5,and #4 camalots in the first 20 feet and wished I had more cowbell all the way home.

Location

Follow Eric Horst's book. You're gonna get lost anyway.

Protection

From #1 camalot up, big hexes, extras in wide sizes handy.
The first ascent of Bushwack Crack (and most of the other '80s era plums on Old Rag) belongs to Greg Collins. I believe he did the first ascent, onsight, solo but would have to confirm that with Greg. The jams are locker and the climb has been soloed (onsight or otherwise) by numerous people. Nov 20, 2014
DennisL
Bishop, CA
 
DennisL   Bishop, CA
 
Incredible line - great hand jamming and nice face features. Crux for me was pulling the roof and I felt lucky to get to do moves like that at 10c!

I think I brought .5, .75, and doubles from #1 to #3. Ran out of hand and larger sizes up top but managed to place the smaller pieces. I would have appreciated another #2 and #3 and also a #4. Using a horizontal crack to the left of the line, we pre-placed a #1 in the end of the roof to protect the bouldery start without causing rope drag problems later.

As of 11/13 the anchor up top is three nuts with a few pieces of webbing, none of them particularly fresh-looking, slung directly through the rusty wires. Definitely bring small cams and nuts to back up the anchor!

This climb deserves a bolted anchor. Nov 11, 2013
K Baumgartner
  5.10c
K Baumgartner  
  5.10c
A fun thrash getting there and up the route.

I used two #3s, a #2, and two #1s among big gear.

There are several starts, so choose your adventure.

Crux for me was the roof. Great hand jams and finger goodness await once you pull onto the face.

As of 11 November, there were three fixed nuts with two pieces of webbing with two non locking opposed biners. I added two pieces (.3 and .4) to back up the anchor for TRing. Nov 11, 2013
Rafael Rovirosa
Salt Lake, UT
 
Rafael Rovirosa   Salt Lake, UT
 
Fun, steep, and stout. The belay is under the roof. There are some old fixed nuts with webbing going directly through the wires that are used to lower off. Mar 31, 2012
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
  5.11a
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
  5.11a
It was Alex Badart that told me Cal Swoager, or Mike Artz did a onsight solo (1980's). Jul 25, 2009
Ryan Fischer
Littleton
 
Ryan Fischer   Littleton
 
I'm definitely bringing tape next time. Super burly and ultra classic line. Dec 30, 2008
C Runyan
Boulder, CO
 
C Runyan   Boulder, CO
 
Great jam crack. My favorite route at Old Rag -- perfect hands and fists nearly all of the way (as for wide gear, I used two #3s and one #4). The crux is definitely the hike in (well worth it, though). Apr 28, 2008