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Routes in Middle God's Area-Left

Oh My God Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,219 total · 75/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Aug 10, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

A short "pitch" to belay at the base of the main corner, then up sweet laybacking butterscotch all the way to the top. Five star pitch.

Location

This is the easiest to find climb near the Reflector Oven; that doesn't make the approach any easier, but I guarantee it's worth it.

Protection

Cams from fingers to largest, you'll be pumped and appreciating the big guys at the top. Bolted anchor.
Steve C
Missoula, MT
 
Steve C   Missoula, MT
 
Anchors up top. Classic pitch on beautiful granite. The middle of the route can be jammed for a good 20 feet or so to ease the pump factor. Dec 3, 2007
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.10c
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.10c
If youv'e ever looked over at this crack from Strawberry Fields you will know why its called "Oh My God!" Dihedral. Super climbing!

On the East of the descent gully at about the same elevation as Strawberry Fields. Jun 6, 2008
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
 
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
 
In the 80's the name was "Oh My God Corner" Jul 25, 2009
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
To reach the top, scramble down from the Ridge Trail slab facing south. To get to the base of the route, descend Bushwhack Trail and stay left. You can't miss it. Dec 30, 2011
Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
 
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
 
Best to approach this climb from above so you don't have to haul or carry your pack. I don,t know of a fixed anchor, but its been 10 years since the last time I climbed this route, but I used to rig a gear anchor and rap to the base of the corner. Rack up from .5 camalot to #4. A #1 camalot works well for the exit move after the desperate wideness. One of the best climbs on Earth. Well worth the hike. Do Strawberry, Bushwack, and this climb for a stellar day you won't forget. FYI this climb gets sun in the afternoon so save it for the end of the day during the winter. Aug 19, 2012
DennisL
Bishop, CA
 
DennisL   Bishop, CA
 
Great great line. The key for me was hand-jamming and stemming my feet out wide for almost the entire line - you'd have to be outrageously strong to layback from start to finish.

I used singles from .75 to #5, doubles of #3. Was very glad to have the #5 up at the top.

Slinging the small trees/putting in a cam for a bottom anchor is a good idea. Nov 11, 2013
Both of the anchor hangars spin and the bolt shanks are rusted. It felt like there were a couple thousanths of an inch free play between the bolt and the rock. I rapped off them anyway but clenched the whole way down. Apr 16, 2018

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