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Areas in Virginia

Climbing Gyms 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Central & Southern VA Region 113 / 44 / 79 / 365 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 548
DC & Northern VA Region 161 / 0 / 244 / 33 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 281
Shenandoah & NW VA Region 180 / 80 / 67 / 78 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 336
Southwest Virginia Region 67 / 92 / 13 / 1726 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1891
Elevation: 460 ft
GPS: 37.614, -78.508 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Keegan Dimmick on Aug 23, 2006
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

Description

Virginia is for lovers; and as climbers we are all lovers of quality stone to pull on. Whether it is trad, mixed, sport, or bouldering that you are looking for, the Old Dominion state has a whole lotta' stone just lookin' for love.

Summer: This time of year the weather can be terrible for climbing due to humidity, bugs, and vegetation, especially the lower in elevation you are. Regardless of the weather it's easy to get psyched on the plethora of crags and boulder fields throughout the Old Dominion, from Great Falls to the Appalachian highlands. There are thousands of problems and routes strewn across the state of VA, so pick your poison and get on some stone!

Check out Great Falls, Old Rag, and Elizabeth Furnace for lots of fun and exciting Trad and TR routes. These fine areas, along with most of the other trad and TR areas in VA are generally located in gorgeous parks and unique settings. Keep watch for many other areas that are being established across the Old Dominion.

Also check out Iron Gate or the recently re-opened Hidden Valley for some great sport routes, and Roanoke River Gorge for fun sport, mixed, and trad lines.

There are multitudes of quality bouldering opportunities across Virginia. There are several high quality boulder fields, great local areas, and small obscure spots scattered throughout the state. Mcafees Knob has tons of great bouldering and The Cascades is an up-and-coming favorite. For the best warm-weather bouldering in VA, be sure to visit Grayson Highlands State Park.

If you're traveling to VA & planning to boulder, but not wanting to lug a crashpad and all of your junk with you, GHSP now has a rental pad, chalk, chalkbag, and brush for rent!

Guidebook

-The Horst guide, "Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland" is a great reference for popular VA destinations like Old Rag and Great Falls.

-Grab the PATC Great Falls book for more routes and info on the area. Also available for sale at the visitor's center.
http://www.potomacmountainclub.org/content/view/83/115/

-Check out Graysonhighlandsbouldering for more photos, videos, problems, the GHSP Boudering Guidebook, bolderfield maps, park info and upcoming events.

-Also, if you want to download the GHSP bouldering guide on your iPhone or Android check out the Rakkup Mobile GHSP Guidebook App: http://www.rakkup.com/grayson-highlands-bouldering-tonic-for-the-mind/

Local Climbing Organizations

If you are looking for specific area or access information for VA climbing, or to get involved or support climbing access and stewardship initiatives, contacting local climber organizations is the go-to option:

Mid Atlantic Climbers (MAC): "MAC is a non-profit organization dedicated to preserving access to climbing areas in the Mid-Atlantic region, while promoting responsible climbing and environmental stewardship. MAC serves as a liaison between the climbing community and land managers (park or private) for the crags in [the Maryland and Virginia] region." The link to MAC's website can be found here: http://www.midatlanticclimbers.org

Central Appalachia Climbers Coalition (CACC): A 501-c3 non-profit coalition focused on stewardship initiatives and preserving and promoting climber access throughout the mountainous Central Appalachian region. Here is a link to CACC's website: https://www.climbcentralappalachia.com/

Help Bring Back the AVP Boulders Today!



We have the ability to bring back the phenomenal AVP Boulderfield of GHSP! It has been well over a year since we posted the news that the AVP Boulders were closed to climbing. Ever since, through the hard work and dedicated efforts of the Central Appalachia Climbers Coalition (CACC) and the Access Fund, we have worked with the landowners to negotiate a formal agreement for climbers to purchase the boulders. The survey, appraisal, and purchase agreement is complete! Now, with the community’s help, CACC is ready to acquire and permanently protect these fantastic boulders. CACC now has three months to raise the necessary funds to complete the purchase. If you enjoy climbing at the AVP Boulders, in Grayson Highlands in general, or would like to support the conservation and access preservation of some of the best boulders in Virginia, please donate to day! The end goal for this property is to allow GHSP to acquire the land, becoming an official part of Grayson Highlands State Park where bouldering is and openly encouraged and loved activity. Please follow and share the link below and let’s make it happen:

https://www.climbcentralappalachia.com/avp-boulders

3,063 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Virginia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
Highland Highball
Boulder
V3 6A
Periscope
Boulder
V5 6C
Front Man
Boulder
V5 6C
True Grit
Boulder
V6 7A
Horizon Line
Boulder
V6 7A
Thews
Boulder
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Anonymous Flake Right
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love Big Jugs
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Melungian Brotherhood
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strawberry Fields
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fortis
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost Arrow
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bushwhack Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Oh My God Dihedral
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leading Should Feel This Way
Sport
Highland Highball Southwest Virgini… > … 1 > Horizon Area > Highland Highball V2 5+ Boulder
Periscope Southwest Virgini… > … 1 > Contact Station B… > Periscope Boulder V3 6A Boulder
Front Man Southwest Virgini… > … > A.V.P. Boulders > A.V.P. Boulder V5 6C Boulder
True Grit Southwest Virgini… > … 1 > Contact Station B… > True Grit Boulder V5 6C Boulder
Horizon Line Southwest Virgini… > … 1 > Horizon Area > Horizon Boulder V6 7A Boulder
Thews Southwest Virgini… > … 1 > Middle Boneyard > Thews Boulder V6 7A Boulder
Anonymous Flake Right Shenandoah & NW V… > Elizabeth Furnace > Buzzard Rocks 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, TR
I Love Big Jugs Shenandoah & NW V… > Elizabeth Furnace > Talking Headwall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Melungian Brotherhood Shenandoah & NW V… > Elizabeth Furnace > Buzzard Rocks 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Strawberry Fields Shenandoah & NW V… > … > Old Rag > Reflector Oven 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Fortis Shenandoah & NW V… > Elizabeth Furnace > Talking Headwall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Lost Arrow DC & Northern VA… > Great Falls > Aid Box 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Bushwhack Crack Shenandoah & NW V… > … > Old Rag > Wall That Dreams Are Made Of 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Oh My God Dihedral Shenandoah & NW V… > … > Old Rag > Middle God's Area-Left 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Leading Should Feel This Way Shenandoah & NW V… > Elizabeth Furnace > Talking Headwall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Virginia »

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Photos

I can't find Crescent Rock in here (MP) A North central classic along the AT. Gotta be in here ? "Popeye's Last Crank" "Crescent Crack" "Traverse of the Cresent" good in Winter.... Oct 30, 2015
@Ben Cruz try elizabeth furnace Oct 26, 2015
Brandon Bolt. Pretty sure it is all trad or mixed routes. There is some bouldering that I just added today Oct 26, 2015
Hey guys I'm staying in Hamilton Virginia and I was wondering where some sweet boulders are, located with in that proximity? Or sport climbing routes? May 13, 2015
Are the climbing routes near old rag lead or top rope? I am moving to DC this summer abd have never been to that area. Apr 21, 2015
Becca Marasco
Columbia, South Carolina
Becca Marasco   Columbia, South Carolina
Hey all,

I recently got offered a ranger job between George Washington and Jefferson National Forests, northwest of Roanoke VA. I am hoping to bring my mountain bike and a crash pad for the 18 weeks of solitude and wilderness monitoring. However, before I commit I want to make sure I won't go soft and bored without boulders to climb on. Any routes in the area or even enough boulder patches I can scout my own?

Thank you so much,

fellow rock crusher Apr 11, 2014
Aaron Parlier
Boone, NC
Aaron Parlier   Boone, NC  
Mike you should go for it! Shoot me a message sometime before you get underway. Sometime before you get too involved in the formal structure of the guide. There is an area I'd like to talk to you about that would be important to include for sure. The guide sounds like a great idea! Mar 21, 2012
Mike Mu.
hagerstown
Mike Mu.   hagerstown
So I have been tossing around the idea for a few years of doing a comprehensive Rock & Ice climbing guidebook for VA. VA doesn't have a great guidebook for all the stuff that exists there. The Watson guide is subpar and the Horst book while nice skipped a lot of areas. I was thinking of focusing only on roped climbing-including all of the excellent bouldering would take a lifetime to finish. Just wanted to probe the interest of fellow MP'ers that climb in VA-is this something you would be interested in using? What format would you want to see--color photos with route lines drawn in, topos, etc? Obviously SNP/BRP and the National Forests will be the meat of the guide, but are there other areas you would want to see? Mar 21, 2012
Matt L  
Be on the lookout for an awesome gym opening in the Christiansburg/Blacksburg area! Crimper's Climbing Gym is located at 100 Central Ave, Christiansburg Va, 24073. The bouldering wall stretches 70 feet horizontally and reaches 16 feet above the padding. There are seven top rope stations around the tower ranging from overhanging to slab climbing. the lead cave starts seven feet below the floor level, giving 30 feet of lead climbing.

This gym is sweet, everyone in the area should come check it out once they open in early April. You can get more info at crimpersclimbing.com or email at info@crimpersclimbing.com

Get excited! Feb 28, 2012
How did McAfee Knob get its name Dec 24, 2011
Steve C
Missoula, MT
Steve C   Missoula, MT
Andrew: I also saw two bolted lines on a north-facing cliff on the trail between the parkway and Apple Orchard Falls. Looked like quality routes; 5.10-5.12 range. Always meant to get back there and try them before I moved away from VA. I say go get on 'em and let us know how they are! Sep 9, 2011
Aaron Parlier
Boone, NC
Aaron Parlier   Boone, NC  
Andrew Cassidy:
I tried looking the place up and I could only find hiking and waterfall information. I for one have never heard of it, but from the photos online Im sure someone has established lines there. Looks like a cool spot... I would take to the local gear shop or the closest gym for information. Good luck, and if you do find out info on the place be sure to post it on here! Mar 17, 2011
Does anyone have any beta on Apple Orchard Falls. I saw bolts there before I was a climber when I was backpacking a couple of years ago?!? Feb 14, 2011
Aaron Parlier
Boone, NC
Aaron Parlier   Boone, NC  
bigdan:

Sorry I’m so late about getting back to you about GHSP. The dry time at Grayson is usually about a day. The park tends to have its own weather pattern, but Weatherchannel.com is usually right about the conditions out there. The Listening rock trail dries in approximately one day, the Boneyard area can be stubborn to dry and takes around a day-two days, the highlands area can dry in much less than a day if its breezy... contact station area takes around a day as well.
-Aaron Parlier Oct 14, 2010
Aaron Parlier
Boone, NC
Aaron Parlier   Boone, NC  
Hi VirginiaS. If you're close enough to Sportrock in Alexandria you have to go there. Its fantastic Mar 13, 2010
VirginiaS
Boulder, CO
VirginiaS   Boulder, CO
I've just moved to Northern Virginia for a few months and was hoping to get some information about climbing in the area, maybe even some ice this winter? I've just moved from Boulder and am hoping to find some people to climb with and until the snow melts, a good gym in the area around Shenandoah National park. Any information would be seriously appreciated. Thanks! Feb 6, 2010
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
I believe there is, but it looks like its supposed to be a snow storm from friday night into saturday so your outdoor chances are slim.... Good thing there is a great gym in lynchburg! Dec 17, 2009
S.Mccabe
boulder, co
S.Mccabe   boulder, co
I will be passing through VA this weekend. Is there any climbing near or within an hour of Lynchburg? Dec 17, 2009
JonathanGerst
Morocco, Africa
JonathanGerst   Morocco, Africa
Info request for Tunstall's Tooth in Big Island, VA. Route information? Sport, trad, mixed, or TR? Topo maps? Contact info for official or unofficial crag caretaker? Dec 2, 2009
Ladd    
Check out this climbing video from rockclimbing.com featuring climbing in Virginia. Oct 22, 2007

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