Elevation: 1,455 ft
GPS: 36.905, -80.144 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,900,231 total · 17,159/month
Shared By: Keegan Dimmick on Aug 23, 2006
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

Welcome

Virginia is for lovers; and we climbers all love pulling on quality stone. Whether it is trad, mixed, sport, or bouldering that you are looking for, the Old Dominion State has plenty of rock that's just lookin' for love.

Check out Great Falls, Old Rag, Elizabeth Furnace, or Breaks Interstate for lots of fun and exciting Trad and TR routes. These fine areas, along with most of the other trad and TR areas in VA, are generally located in gorgeous parks and unique settings. Keep watch for many other areas that are being established across the Old Dominion.

Check out Iron GateBreaks Interstate or the recently re-opened Hidden Valley for some great sport routes, and Roanoke River Gorge for fun sport, mixed, and trad lines. Breaks is a sport climbing mecca-in-the-making with an untold number of potential routes to be developed and a great number recently established, high quality sandstone routes. Hidden Valley is a gorgeous sport climbing paradise in Appalachia boasting over 300 routes, just off of Interstate 81.

There is a vast amount of quality bouldering opportunities scattered across Virginia. All across the state you will find several high quality boulder fields, great local areas, and small obscure spots throughout VA, with many noteworthy fields found in the Southwestern corner. Mcafees Knob has tons of great bouldering and The Cascades is an up-and-coming favorite. For the best warm-weather bouldering in VA, and the largest established boulderfield in the state, be sure to visit Grayson Highlands State Park.

Guidebooks

-The Horst guide, "Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland" is a great reference for popular VA destinations like Old Rag and Great Falls.

-Grab the PATC Great Falls book for more routes and info on the area. Also available for sale at the visitor's center.
potomacmountainclub.org/con…

-Check out Graysonhighlandsbouldering for more photos, videos, problems, the GHSP Boudering Guidebook, bolderfield maps, park info and upcoming events.

-Also, if you want to download the GHSP bouldering guide on your iPhone or Android check out the Rakkup Mobile GHSP Guidebook App: rakkup.com/grayson-highland…

Local Climbing Organizations

If you are looking for specific area or access information for VA climbing, or to get involved or support climbing access and stewardship initiatives, contacting local climber organizations is the go-to option:

Mid Atlantic Climbers (MAC): "MAC is a non-profit organization dedicated to preserving access to climbing areas in the Mid-Atlantic region, while promoting responsible climbing and environmental stewardship. MAC serves as a liaison between the climbing community and land managers (park or private) for the crags in [the Maryland and eastern Virginia] region." The link to MAC's website can be found here: http://www.midatlanticclimbers.org 

Central Appalachia Climbers Coalition (CACC): A 501-C3 non-profit coalition focused on preserving and promoting climber access while hosting and supporting climber driven stewardship initiatives throughout the mountainous region of Central Appalachia. Here is a link to the CACC's Website.

4,805 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Virginia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
 63
Periscope
Boulder
V5 6C
 48
True Grit
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 76
Raising Arizona
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 68
Romeo's Ladder
Trad, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 62
Ass Cannibal
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 128
I Love Big Jugs
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 63
Melungian Brotherhood
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 67
Pulp Friction
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 102
Strawberry Fields
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 74
Fortis
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 70
Pure Energy
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 64
Big Balls
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 55
Lost Arrow
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 42
Oh My God Dihedral
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 111
Leading Should Feel This Way
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Periscope Southwest Virgi… > … > Contact Station… > Periscope Boulder
 63
V3 6A Boulder
True Grit Southwest Virgi… > … > Contact Station… > True Grit Boulder
 48
V5 6C Boulder
Raising Arizona Shenandoah & NW… > Elizabeth Furnace > Buzzard Rocks
 76
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Romeo's Ladder DC & Northern V… > Great Falls > Romeo's Ladder
 68
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Ass Cannibal Shenandoah & NW… > Elizabeth Furnace > Buzzard Rocks
 62
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
I Love Big Jugs Shenandoah & NW… > Elizabeth Furnace > Talking Headwall
 128
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Melungian Brotherhood Shenandoah & NW… > Elizabeth Furnace > Buzzard Rocks
 63
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Pulp Friction Shenandoah & NW… > Elizabeth Furnace > Buzzard Rocks
 67
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Strawberry Fields Shenandoah & NW… > … > Old Rag > Reflector Oven
 102
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Fortis Shenandoah & NW… > Elizabeth Furnace > Talking Headwall
 74
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Pure Energy Shenandoah & NW… > Elizabeth Furnace > Talking Headwall
 70
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Big Balls Shenandoah & NW… > Elizabeth Furnace > Talking Headwall
 64
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Lost Arrow DC & Northern V… > Great Falls > Aid Box
 55
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Oh My God Dihedral Shenandoah & NW… > … > Old Rag > Middle God's Area-Left
 42
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Leading Should Feel This Way Shenandoah & NW… > Elizabeth Furnace > Talking Headwall
 111
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
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