Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,571 total · 59/month
Shared By: Paul Hunnicutt on May 14, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Description

For me this is one of the best climbs at Great Falls. Climb the obvious pin scarred crack using the small left facing dihedral on your right. Crux is grasping the holds on the left facing dihedral and moving beyond them. It is supposedly 5.11 if you go straight up the crack without the dihedral. Add a few letter grades for a mid-summer, humid-as-hell ascent :)

Location

In the Aid Box just left of the PV overhang.

Protection

Typically a TR, but one could lead this crack. A few cams and a set of nuts would be sufficient. Offset cams/nuts would work better in the pin scars. Plenty of trees for a TR setup, but also a nice crack for cams/nuts if you don't have enough long slings.

FYI: I've never actually seen anyone leading here and not sure how well pro holds in the rock.

Photos

John Ely   DC
"The rock is partially-metamorphosed schist composed of granite and quartz crystals. While the rock is stable, it is not recomended for trad climbing as protection will slip or break out." Nov 12, 2008
yes, the pro may look good but cams dont hold in this shit Dec 4, 2008
Jhernand
Salt Lake City, UT
Jhernand   Salt Lake City, UT
will if you don't fall... thats the trick to keeping it in on the aid box... Mar 1, 2010
No need for cams, there are plenty of places to thread a nut if you wanna lead. Or just solo it :) Jun 30, 2010