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Routes in Talking Headwall

Angry Muppets T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Balls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Discontinuance (Continuance post-rockfall) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Bastard S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Foops T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fortis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Love Big Jugs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Want a Big Truck T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Leading Should Feel This Way S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McMurray must be Castrated T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ne Plus Ultra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pure Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Send Town S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
VROS ArĂȘte T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
unknown, 5.10 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,597 total, 65/month
Shared By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

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Description

This route climbs the large roof to the right side of the crag. Start at a very high first bolt (consider stick clipping, placing a small cam, or getting some balls). Clip the second bolt below the large roof (decking possibilities). Pull the roof using the small rail and some heel hooks. Clip the next bolt and shake out. Begin to follow the bolts slightly to the right and then left toward the anchors. Fight the pump through this section and find good rests for the run to the anchors. This route is the gem of the crag.

Location

This route climbs straight through the middle of the large roof on the right side of the crag. From the left, this is the fourth bolted route.

Protection

6 bolts and ring anchors. You can use a TCU or nut to protect yourself before the first bolt.
There are two newish bolts that lead out right after the initial roof pull and up to the anchors on Furnass. This variation is fairly sandy/dirty but the movement is quite fun. Felt pretty similar in difficulty as the standard route. Oct 30, 2017
Charlotte211  
 
I climbed this route, ad only being 5'1, it was really hard! The first route was good enough, but the second one made me take my first fall. Oct 2, 2015
David Kutassy
Charlottesville, VA
David Kutassy   Charlottesville, VA
Its a sport route, you shouldn't need any trad gear. Just saying...... Mar 23, 2015
Colin Dandridge
Golden
  5.10c
Colin Dandridge   Golden
  5.10c
I also saw a climber deck last year and the belayer went tumbling backwards 30 feet down the hill leaving me to suspect his belaying may have effected the cam placement...Oh well, bring an extra draw now..And a helmet ! Feb 8, 2015
Keegan Dimmick
Winchester, VA
 
Keegan Dimmick   Winchester, VA
 
If the first bolt is too high go climb a different route or learn how to place a proper cam. I've had cams pop out on me and guess what, I didn't add a bolt. I came back and placed the cam again, but in a better location. If you didn't get the FA, don't add any bolts. Pretty plain and simple. Dec 11, 2014
Edwin B  
Understandable; and there's a legitimate question about a cam being required for a bolted route at an almost entirely bolted crag. I would still like to know who's active with a drill in our area, so if you or anyone else reading has any information, please send me a message. Not trying to stir anything up. Dec 2, 2014
aribtraryusername
Carson City, NV
5.10b
aribtraryusername   Carson City, NV
5.10b
ftr, a few months ago we saw a leader deck when their small cam pulled, and the paramedics had to be called--it was not a good landing on the boulder by the start. i wonder if the new bolt was inspired by that injury. Dec 2, 2014
Edwin B  
At the very least, it'd be nice to know who is putting in new bolts/routes here. Dec 1, 2014
Keegan Dimmick
Winchester, VA
 
Keegan Dimmick   Winchester, VA
 
Why are we adding extra bolts to this route?!?! This route has been climbed for years without serious issues. Like most people say, just use a small cam and then climb to the first bolt. Not ok. Dec 1, 2014
aribtraryusername
Carson City, NV
5.10b
aribtraryusername   Carson City, NV
5.10b
as of 11/30/2014 there was an added first bolt protecting the start of this route (not placed by me). so the small cam at the bottom is no longer necessary. it also seems like the last bolt may have been relocated, it seemed in a much better place to clip than i remembered previously. Dec 1, 2014
Bob Ewing
Arlington
 
Bob Ewing   Arlington
 
Excellent route. I agree with BrianWS, definitely protect yourself before the high first bolt. A #0.4 BD cam works perfect. I placed a #1 BD cam after 2nd bolt and overhang, then removed the #1 after clipping the 3rd bolt. Probably the best climb at the crag. Nov 6, 2013
BrianWS
5.10b
BrianWS  
5.10b
Fun roof pulling and sustained overhung climbing afterward. As for the first bolt, please opt for the stick clip or a piece of gear lower down rather than just "growing some balls" if you are not 100% solid at the grade. Jun 4, 2011