Elevation: 716 ft
GPS: 38.947, -78.302 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 72,564 total · 486/month
Shared By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008 with 4 Suggestions
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath

Description

A small, very secluded crag right next to the road. The cliff sees all of its sun in the early to late afternoon. You will see shade the rest of the day. The close vicinity to Passage Creek will offer you some chilly evenings, so this is a great summer crag. Routes range from 5.7-5.10, and the quality ranges from "classic" to "don't waste your time". Although this crag doesn't seem to get a lot of traffic it is often used for scout days and adventure camps. When this happens you might as well begin the hike to Buzzard Rocks. There are not enough climbs here to share with large parties.

All of these routes are also top-ropeable. If you follow the crag all the way to the end on the right, you will find a path that leads to the top. There are ample trees and rocks to set anchors. Use good judgment.

Getting There

From the East-
Take I-66 West to Route 55 West towards Front Royal. Stay on 55 West until the town of Waterlick. Turn left onto Powells Fort Road (Route 678). Drive about 1.2 miles on 678 until you come to where Mountain Road (Route 619) intersects with 678. Don't turn here. Continue on 678 for about a 1/4 mile. At this point the road is choked on the right by a rock wall and on the left by the stream. After passing this, park in the first available lot on the right side of the road. Walk back along the road in the direction you just came from for about 200 yards. Look to your left (the stream is on your right) and you will see the climbing area. It's very easy to miss while driving because the trees and a slight rise conceal it.

20 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Talking Headwall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
Phil’s new rope
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 131
I Love Big Jugs
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 72
Ne Plus Ultra
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 75
Fortis
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 73
Pure Energy
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 39
Galen's 10
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 64
Big Balls
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
Foops
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 113
Leading Should Feel This Way
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 25
Send Town
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Phil’s new rope
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
I Love Big Jugs
 131
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Ne Plus Ultra
 72
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Fortis
 75
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Pure Energy
 73
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Galen's 10
 39
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Big Balls
 64
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Foops
 19
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Leading Should Feel This Way
 113
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Send Town
 25
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport
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