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Talking Headwall Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Talking Headwall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Angry Muppets T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Big Balls S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Coupled Piranhas V6 7A PG13
	Discontinuance (Continuance post-rockfall) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Fat Bastard S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Foops T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Fortis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Frickin Chicken V8- 7B PG13
	Furnass T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
	Furnasty S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Galen's 10 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	I Love Big Jugs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	I Want a Big Truck T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Johnson Burger V1 5 PG13
	Leading Should Feel This Way S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Leading Should Feel This Way Alternate Finish S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Life City V4 6B
	Little Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ludacris V7- 7A+ PG13
	Ludacris direct V5 6C PG13
	McMurray must be Castrated T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ne Plus Ultra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Phil’s new rope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Pure Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Pure Energy (variation) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Send Town S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Top Rope Face / Ascent Gully TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	VROS Arête T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Watch your feet T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

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Elevation:	716 ft	218 m
GPS:	38.9466, -78.3022 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	109,044 total · 539/month
Shared By:	Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008 · Updates
Admins:	Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

A small, very secluded crag right next to the road. The cliff sees all of its sun in the early to late afternoon. You will see shade the rest of the day. The close vicinity to Passage Creek will offer you some chilly evenings, so this is a great summer crag. Routes range from 5.7-5.10, and the quality ranges from "classic" to "don't waste your time". Although this crag doesn't seem to get a lot of traffic it is often used for scout days and adventure camps. When this happens you might as well begin the hike to Buzzard Rocks. There are not enough climbs here to share with large parties.

All of these routes are also top-ropeable. If you follow the crag all the way to the end on the right, you will find a path that leads to the top. There are ample trees and rocks to set anchors. Use good judgment.

Getting There

From the East-
Take I-66 West to Route 55 West towards Front Royal. Stay on 55 West until the town of Waterlick. Turn left onto Powells Fort Road (Route 678). Drive about 1.2 miles on 678 until you come to where Mountain Road (Route 619) intersects with 678. Don't turn here. Continue on 678 for about a 1/4 mile. At this point the road is choked on the right by a rock wall and on the left by the stream. After passing this, park in the first available lot on the right side of the road. Walk back along the road in the direction you just came from for about 200 yards. Look to your left (the stream is on your right) and you will see the climbing area. It's very easy to miss while driving because the trees and a slight rise conceal it.

29 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Talking Headwall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 190 ● I Love Big Jugs Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 108 ● Ne Plus Ultra Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 117 ● Fortis Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 106 ● Pure Energy Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 75 ● Galen's 10 Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 99 ● Big Balls Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 30 ● Foops Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 11 ● Leading Should Feel This Way Alt… Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 172 ● Leading Should Feel This Way Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 52 ● Send Town Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 4 ● Pure Energy (variation) Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 5 ● Furnasty Sport