Talking Headwall Rock Climbing
Routes in Talking Headwall
|Angry Muppets T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Big Balls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Discontinuance (Continuance post-rockfall) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Fat Bastard S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Foops T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Fortis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|I Love Big Jugs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|I Want a Big Truck T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Leading Should Feel This Way S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Little Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|McMurray must be Castrated T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Ne Plus Ultra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Pure Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Send Town S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|VROS Arête T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|unknown, 5.10 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|GPS:||38.947, -78.302 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||33,339 total, 285/month|
|Shared By:||Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008|
|Admins:||Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath|
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DescriptionA small, very secluded crag right next to the road. The cliff sees all of its sun in the early to late afternoon. You will see shade the rest of the day. The close vicinity to Passage Creek will offer you some chilly evenings, so this is a great summer crag. Routes range from 5.7-5.10, and the quality ranges from "classic" to "don't waste your time". Although this crag doesn't seem to get a lot of traffic it is often used for scout days and adventure camps. When this happens you might as well begin the hike to Buzzard Rocks. There are not enough climbs here to share with large parties.
All of these routes are also top-ropeable. If you follow the crag all the way to the end on the right, you will find a path that leads to the top. There are ample trees and rocks to set anchors. Use good judgment.
Getting ThereFrom the East-
Take I-66 West to Route 55 West towards Front Royal. Stay on 55 West until the town of Waterlick. Turn left onto Powells Fort Road (Route 678). Drive about 1.2 miles on 678 until you come to where Mountain Road (Route 619) intersects with 678. Don't turn here. Continue on 678 for about a 1/4 mile. At this point the road is choked on the right by a rock wall and on the left by the stream. After passing this, park in the first available lot on the right side of the road. Walk back along the road in the direction you just came from for about 200 yards. Look to your left (the stream is on your right) and you will see the climbing area. It's very easy to miss while driving because the trees and a slight rise conceal it.
Classic Climbing Routes at Talking Headwall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season