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Routes in Talking Headwall

Angry Muppets T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Balls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Discontinuance (Continuance post-rockfall) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Bastard S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Foops T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fortis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Love Big Jugs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Want a Big Truck T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Leading Should Feel This Way S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McMurray must be Castrated T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ne Plus Ultra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pure Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Send Town S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
VROS ArĂȘte T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
unknown, 5.10 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevation: 716 ft
GPS: 38.947, -78.302 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 33,339 total, 285/month
Shared By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008 with updates
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath
Getting weather forecast...

Description

A small, very secluded crag right next to the road. The cliff sees all of its sun in the early to late afternoon. You will see shade the rest of the day. The close vicinity to Passage Creek will offer you some chilly evenings, so this is a great summer crag. Routes range from 5.7-5.10, and the quality ranges from "classic" to "don't waste your time". Although this crag doesn't seem to get a lot of traffic it is often used for scout days and adventure camps. When this happens you might as well begin the hike to Buzzard Rocks. There are not enough climbs here to share with large parties.

All of these routes are also top-ropeable. If you follow the crag all the way to the end on the right, you will find a path that leads to the top. There are ample trees and rocks to set anchors. Use good judgment.

Getting There

From the East-
Take I-66 West to Route 55 West towards Front Royal. Stay on 55 West until the town of Waterlick. Turn left onto Powells Fort Road (Route 678). Drive about 1.2 miles on 678 until you come to where Mountain Road (Route 619) intersects with 678. Don't turn here. Continue on 678 for about a 1/4 mile. At this point the road is choked on the right by a rock wall and on the left by the stream. After passing this, park in the first available lot on the right side of the road. Walk back along the road in the direction you just came from for about 200 yards. Look to your left (the stream is on your right) and you will see the climbing area. It's very easy to miss while driving because the trees and a slight rise conceal it.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Talking Headwall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Went up there on 15NOV and found a GriGri, a few quickdraws and some other gear. If you can identify it, I'm happy to return it. Nov 24, 2017
Found some gear and boots left at the crag yesterday (10/23) If you can identify it I will make sure to get it back to you! Oct 24, 2017
Francisco Fuentes
Manassas, Va
Francisco Fuentes   Manassas, Va
Hello all, I just wanted to say the new rakkup guide is now available. All beta is downloaded to the in phone app. Access all the routes, topos, trails & waypoint navigation off your phone. Once downloaded no service is required, so you can have the beta while out of cell service range.

rakkup.com/guidebooks/eliza… Apr 28, 2017
TaylorP  
No wasps! and for parking, a lot of people tend to parallel park on the pullout, which only leaves space for maybe 5-6 cars. You can pull in slanted and leave a lot more room for everyone, it can get a bit busy on weekends. Apr 12, 2017
Sleyer  
Has anyone been recently? Is there still a wasp condition at Talking Headwall? Much thanks. Nov 24, 2015
Found out today that Furnass (5.12a), to the right of Leading Should Feel This Way, is missing the second bolt which was right above the roof. Was pumped after the roof and didn't feel like looking around if there was a replacement. Next bolt looks like 10' to 15' up. Oct 11, 2015
Fan Zhang
Washington, DC
Fan Zhang   Washington, DC
On Leading Should Feel This Way, the second bolt (under the roof) was spinning as of Feb 23, 2014 and has been for a long time now. May 15, 2014
Edwin B  
Overall, the bolt conditions are good. No obvious signs of rust or corrosion. Those spinners have been spinners for... I'm not even sure how long. Quite some time. We should probably put them on them on the to-do list, but they seem to be holding pretty well. Everyone is responsible for their own personal safety, but I don't consider them unsafe. Apr 30, 2014
Legalto  
How are the bolts looking? I haven't been here in a while, but figured I'd ask given Jake's concerns. Apr 30, 2014
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
This place could use some TLC. I usually take a bag with me and pick up trash and large chunks of glass when I see them. Specifically though, there are very loose spinners on the anchors of Fat Bastard and Pure Energy (two of the most popular, and probably most climbed routes here). I would imagine there are more culprits as well. Idk my ass from a hole in the ground when it comes to bolting, but I'm more than willing to contribute some hardware and some elbow grease and gear if anyone's interested. Aug 7, 2013
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
This crag has definitely gotten more popular over the last few years. It is now used by a lot of people, including local groups for teaching purposes. Near the upper area (up the trail on the right) there is a 2-bolt ring anchor set up, which I assume was put there for teaching purposes for those new to outdoor sport climbing.

In April 2013, the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club (PATC), PATC-Mountaineering Section (PATC-MS) and Mid-Atlantic Climbers (MAC) hosted the first (of hopefully many) adopt-a-crag at Talking Headwall. Please help us maintain this area by staying on the obvious designated trails and picking up after yourselves (trash, tape, band-aids, etc). Do a little good thing and pick up some broken glass and carry it out with you. This little crag needs all the TLC it can get! Jun 27, 2013
Aaron Parlier
Boone, NC
Aaron Parlier   Boone, NC  
If anyone out there knows the name/grade/location of the routes please add them. Seems like an awesome area, and Im sure everyone else would like to know more about the place (I know I would). Nov 21, 2010
Vicki Schwantes
Sacramento, CA
Vicki Schwantes   Sacramento, CA  
Suggested edit for the directions. From the East, take I-66 West to exit 6, take a left on South 340/522, and shortly after a right on 55 West (Strasburg Road) until the town of Waterlick.

Otherwise you might end up getting off of 66 way earlier than necessary.

Also, Route 678 is actually "Fort Valley Road".

Oct 31, 2010

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