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Routes in Talking Headwall

Angry Muppets T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Balls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Discontinuance (Continuance post-rockfall) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Bastard S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Foops T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fortis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Furnass T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Galen's 10 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Love Big Jugs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Want a Big Truck T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Leading Should Feel This Way S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leading Should Feel This Way Alternate Finish S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McMurray must be Castrated T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ne Plus Ultra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pure Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Send Town S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
VROS ArĂȘte T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Scott Smith and Travis Signor
Page Views: 1,454 total · 86/month
Shared By: R Smitty on Jun 26, 2017
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

5 bolts to chains
Start a little left of first bolt. Move up to a rail that goes up and right then up to first clip. Move left and up and make 2nd clip, then move straight up. It is also possible to traverse left, and then up. This is a little easier, and even better,you can find a good rest. But stay on route and keep the burn going. Find a stance and make 3rd clip, then climb crux.
Follow 4 bolts to the final roof. Grab that jug and your going to send town. There is a 5th bolt above final roof, and anchors at the top. Fun and pumpy.
To tope rope be sure to clip the rope to a draw on the 3rd or 4th bolt. You need to protect for the swing.

Location

first bolted route you come to at crag.
There are anchors at the top

Protection

5 bolts
To Top rope be sure to clip the 2nd or 3rd bolt to protect swing

Photos

James Elric
rockville
 
James Elric   rockville
 
Underappreciated route - interesting moves and great pump.

The hard part is clipping more so than the climbing. 3rd bolt is the crux - I do a left knee bar. seems a lil ridiculous for an 11a but far as I can tell it's the best option at 5'8". Otherwise I'd have to go a healthy ways out left and risky quite a pendulum swing.

NOTE: 9/10/17 there was a large yellow jacket nest on the ground right where the climber lowers. I got stung while belaying. Sep 11, 2017
Pierce Tickle
Arlington, VA
Pierce Tickle   Arlington, VA
As of 3/18/18 there are perma-draws for the 3rd, 4th, and 5th bolts. You can stick-clip the first two bolts up before you start to make it a bit less PG-13, though the first clip is a little spicy so if you have never done the route before, you may want to start with rope through the first draw (or use a crashpad). Mar 19, 2018
Good technical movement for the headwall. But the rock quality is poor in many areas which detracts from the route significantly. Apr 2, 2018
The fixed gear was removed. The BD Quicksilver biners haven't been in production for 15 to 20 years and the second one did not even close on it's own anymore. The first fixed draw on the route was almost completely worn through on the back side from people falling on it and grinding it against the rock. The quick links were not climbing rated hardware. Jul 17, 2018

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