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Routes in Talking Headwall

Angry Muppets T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Balls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Discontinuance (Continuance post-rockfall) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Bastard S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Foops T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fortis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Love Big Jugs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Want a Big Truck T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Leading Should Feel This Way S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McMurray must be Castrated T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ne Plus Ultra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pure Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Send Town S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
VROS ArĂȘte T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
unknown, 5.10 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,929 total, 34/month
Shared By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


59 Opinions

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Description

The crux is pulling through the roof and finding the holds. This is a great route for new leaders. Intimidating (very short) roof with jug holds. Great 5.7 warm up. Clip 4 bolts on easy 5.4 climbing, then clip 1 more through the roof to the anchors.

Location

The small roof directly to the right of the big roof. You can't miss the big roof. This is the last bolted route before the trail begins to ascend the hill on the right side of the crag.

Protection

5 bolts and ring anchors.

Photos

David Kutassy
Charlottesville, VA
 
David Kutassy   Charlottesville, VA
 
Good climb, needs an alpine draw on the 2nd to last bolt! Tough to find holds on the roof unless you traverse right. Mar 31, 2015
Gabe Boning
Falls Church, Virginia
Gabe Boning   Falls Church, Virginia
As of December 2014, the spinner on the anchor was fixed Mar 15, 2015
J Walpole
  5.7
J Walpole  
  5.7
Great route, this was my first lead ever! May 13, 2013
Vicki Schwantes
Sacramento, CA
Vicki Schwantes   Sacramento, CA  
The right D ring on the anchor spins. Oct 31, 2010