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Routes in Talking Headwall

Angry Muppets T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Balls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Discontinuance (Continuance post-rockfall) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Bastard S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Foops T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fortis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Love Big Jugs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Want a Big Truck T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Leading Should Feel This Way S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McMurray must be Castrated T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ne Plus Ultra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pure Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Send Town S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
VROS ArĂȘte T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
unknown, 5.10 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,892 total, 33/month
Shared By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

This route pulls a small roof on good holds, and then you pull through another smaller roof on better holds. Crux is puling the roof at the second bolt. After the first roof you can take a rest on a ledge before finished the easier 5.8 climbing above. This route is one of the must do's of the crag.

Location

Third bolted route looking at the crag from the left.

Protection

4 bolts, and depending on your comfort you can place a #1 cam between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Ring anchors wait for you at the top.

Photos

Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
 
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
 
FA was Brian Brake. Named it after his son. Fun route. Jul 15, 2017
Matt M
 
Matt M  
 
Solid route. A bit tricky finding the hold, but it's a bit harder than the route directly to the right. Jun 14, 2017
Charlotte211  
 
This is a nice warm-up climb. It was fun! Oct 2, 2015
Keegan Dimmick
Winchester, VA
 
Keegan Dimmick   Winchester, VA
 
It's hard to believe someone figured out a way to squeak another route onto this wall. Dec 1, 2014
aribtraryusername
Carson City, NV
aribtraryusername   Carson City, NV
on 11/30/2014 we noticed a new line of bolts just to the R of this. not sure how hard the new route is, just FYI don't get the two lines confused Dec 1, 2014
Bob Ewing
Arlington
 
Bob Ewing   Arlington
 
Great climb. It has two overhanging sections (basically two quick boulder problems) and the rest is easy. I placed a #0.5 BD cam before the 1st bolt, and a #1 after the 2nd bolt. The roofs are straightforward, especially if you've already climbed it, so you can warm up on this before climbing the excellent Leading Should Feel This Way. Nov 6, 2013
Justin Scott
Los Alamos, NM
 
Justin Scott   Los Alamos, NM
 
This climb is located just right of Ne Plus Ultra. Apr 21, 2012