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Routes in Talking Headwall

Angry Muppets T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Balls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Discontinuance (Continuance post-rockfall) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Bastard S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Foops T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fortis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Love Big Jugs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Want a Big Truck T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Leading Should Feel This Way S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McMurray must be Castrated T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ne Plus Ultra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pure Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Send Town S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
VROS ArĂȘte T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
unknown, 5.10 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,112 total, 27/month
Shared By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008 with updates
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

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Description

This is the second route from the left at the Talking Headwall. Start on the featured face and climb through a large overhang. Beware of rope drag through the overhangs. Use a longer sling on the last draw before the anchors, the biner can bind against the ledge and open the gate.

Location

Second route on the left at the Talking Headwall.

Protection

5 bolts and ring anchors.

Photos

I've toproped and leaded this route. The top rope was in convienent spot, and my friends, (who don't lead) enjoyed this. I feel like this is easier than the 5.8 right next to it, though. Oct 2, 2015
Fan Zhang
Washington, DC
  5.9
Fan Zhang   Washington, DC
  5.9
Be careful not to extend too much the draw at the last bolt before the roof/crux. Failure to clip next bolt will result in decking on big ledge half way up the route. May 28, 2013
MealyM Mealy
Frankfurt
MealyM Mealy   Frankfurt
Great route - there are 6 bolts actually, not 5. Overhangs were challenging, but there are good holds if you look for them. There was a lot of rope drag, so I would bring at least 2 alpine draws. Sep 22, 2012
Budman252  
 
Great route. I did this route on gear and no bolts...protects very well. Jul 7, 2012
Justin Scott
Los Alamos, NM
 
Justin Scott   Los Alamos, NM
 
This route is between I Love Big Jugs and Fortis Apr 21, 2012