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Routes in Talking Headwall

Angry Muppets T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Balls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Discontinuance (Continuance post-rockfall) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Bastard S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Foops T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fortis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Love Big Jugs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Want a Big Truck T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Leading Should Feel This Way S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McMurray must be Castrated T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ne Plus Ultra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pure Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Send Town S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
VROS ArĂȘte T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
unknown, 5.10 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,783 total, 15/month
Shared By: Keegan Dimmick on Jun 6, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

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Description

Scramble to the roof near the top. Pull through the roof on good horizontals. This route doesn't see a lot of traffic so beware of loose rock. Clean route with a follower.

Location

30 feet to the left of I Love Big Jugs, you will see the lone bolt 10 feet up.

Protection

One bolt at the beginning, gear the rest of the way. No anchors at the top as of 6/6/08. Walk off or rap.

Photos

Spencer Perry
  5.9
Spencer Perry  
  5.9
Led this last night. The picture on this page seems to bypass the main roof through the notch right of the roof. If you hand traverse left directly under the roof, plug a #2 C4, and pull through on decent horizontals to a top out on slopers and a heel hook the climbing is a little more exciting. Going this way felt 5.9+/5.10-, which, I am guessing, is why the route is in the Horst book as a 5.10a. This finish was very exciting. Aug 17, 2016
Robin H.  
 
This is a fun route, but very hard to get back to if you have a fall while top-roping. The anchor is on a roof, so look out for the trees behind you when you swing out. Otherwise a really fun route! May 14, 2012