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Routes in Talking Headwall

Angry Muppets T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Balls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Discontinuance (Continuance post-rockfall) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Bastard S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Foops T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fortis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Love Big Jugs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Want a Big Truck T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Leading Should Feel This Way S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McMurray must be Castrated T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ne Plus Ultra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pure Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Send Town S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
VROS ArĂȘte T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
unknown, 5.10 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Mike Artz
Page Views: 2,115 total, 20/month
Shared By: Keegan Dimmick on Dec 30, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Great route with two cruxes. The first is pulling the small roof, don't worry though, they're jugs. The roof ticks in at 5.9. The second crux comes 15 feet above the roof, you just pick a crimp and go. Other than that it's the typical Talking Head Wall route, easy climbing at the bottom with some pumpy moves up top.

Location

There is a large roof 50 feet right of Fortis. This line ascends the small crack in the roof and straight up to the anchors. It is the first line on the left side of the roof.

Protection

This is a mixed route with two bolts above the roof. Bring some small to medium gear for the rest. Ring anchors at the top.

Photos

I would disagree with TyrelJ about the second bolt. If you are worried about where the biner sits, just use a longer draw or sling. The rock quality gets worse and worse as you head towards the anchors so I would be skeptical of any gear placed towards the top.

If you brought your trad rack and you can climb the grade, this route is a must do for the area. Nov 14, 2017
TyrelJ
Alexandria, VA
TyrelJ   Alexandria, VA
This climb can easily be done completely off the bolts (.75 BD C4 or X4 right above bolt 1 and black Camp tricam just under bolt 2), and I would at least recommend not using the second bolt. In my opinion, the second bolt is poorly placed, there is a small "ledge" right under the bolt and if you actually weight the draw clipped on it the biner will be loaded on it's side against the "ledge". Additionally, if the biner is loaded here it only takes a little movement on the part of the climber for the rock to open the gate on the biner. Oct 25, 2015
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.10b
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.10b
Gear at the roof, gear between the bolts. Great line. Jun 27, 2013
BrianWS
5.10c
BrianWS  
5.10c
Bring a rack of c3s and c4s, but nothing larger than #.75. The roof is easier than it appears, but there is a definite crux on the overhanging face above. The gear and bolts are good, but there is a fair amount of sand and loose blocks up top. Jun 10, 2011