Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Mike Artz
Page Views: 2,415 total · 20/month
Shared By: Keegan Dimmick on Dec 30, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

You & This Route

16 Opinions

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Great route with two cruxes. The first is pulling the small roof, don't worry though, they're jugs. The roof ticks in at 5.9. The second crux comes 15 feet above the roof, you just pick a crimp and go. Other than that it's the typical Talking Head Wall route, easy climbing at the bottom with some pumpy moves up top.


There is a large roof 50 feet right of Fortis. This line ascends the small crack in the roof and straight up to the anchors. It is the first line on the left side of the roof.


This is a mixed route with two bolts above the roof. Bring some small to medium gear for the rest. Ring anchors at the top.


Bring a rack of c3s and c4s, but nothing larger than #.75. The roof is easier than it appears, but there is a definite crux on the overhanging face above. The gear and bolts are good, but there is a fair amount of sand and loose blocks up top. Jun 10, 2011
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
Gear at the roof, gear between the bolts. Great line. Jun 27, 2013
Alexandria, VA
TyrelJ   Alexandria, VA
This climb can easily be done completely off the bolts (.75 BD C4 or X4 right above bolt 1 and black Camp tricam just under bolt 2), and I would at least recommend not using the second bolt. In my opinion, the second bolt is poorly placed, there is a small "ledge" right under the bolt and if you actually weight the draw clipped on it the biner will be loaded on it's side against the "ledge". Additionally, if the biner is loaded here it only takes a little movement on the part of the climber for the rock to open the gate on the biner. Oct 25, 2015
I would disagree with TyrelJ about the second bolt. If you are worried about where the biner sits, just use a longer draw or sling. The rock quality gets worse and worse as you head towards the anchors so I would be skeptical of any gear placed towards the top.

If you brought your trad rack and you can climb the grade, this route is a must do for the area. Nov 14, 2017