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Routes in Talking Headwall

Angry Muppets T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Balls S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Discontinuance (Continuance post-rockfall) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Bastard S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Foops T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fortis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Love Big Jugs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Want a Big Truck T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Leading Should Feel This Way S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McMurray must be Castrated T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ne Plus Ultra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pure Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Send Town S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
VROS Arête T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
unknown, 5.10 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,373 total · 23/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Jun 27, 2013
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

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Description [Edit]

After the large block came off of Continuance (and other rockfall), this is the "new" route. Since it has changed significantly, I felt it needed a new entry. There are now 4 bolts.

Boulder up to the first bolt. Getting up and out of this recess to the face above is really the crux now. Climb straight up and a bit right on the face past more bolts. Finish straight up to anchors.

Location [Edit]

On the right side of the crag, look for the huge block leaning against the tree. The climb starts at this block. Fat Bastard is the line of bolts to the right (furthest climb to the right before going up the hill).

Protection [Edit]

4 bolts to ring anchors.

Photos

Colin Dandridge
Golden
  5.9+
Colin Dandridge   Golden
  5.9+
Climbing straight up to the 'Poptart Box" block makes this lead worth it. Feb 8, 2015
Spencer Perry
  5.9-
Spencer Perry  
  5.9-
This climb is definitely worth climbing. Much better than fat bastard and has a very fun, distinct crux between the second and third bolts. Jun 29, 2016
Clint Lentile
  5.9-
Clint Lentile  
  5.9-
Easy 5.6 or so climbing until under the bolts. The crux is moving from one crack up to another to some jugs. Then right hand on a positive sloper and left to crimp, get a high foot and make a big move to the so called ”poptart box” jug near the bolt. After this it’s more 5.6-5.7 climbing to the top. Stay to the right of the bolts but don’t move around the face to the right because you’ll be on fat bastard. May 12, 2018

More About Discontinuance (Continuance post-rockfall)

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