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Routes in Talking Headwall

Angry Muppets T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Balls S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Discontinuance (Continuance post-rockfall) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Bastard S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Foops T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fortis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Furnass T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Galen's 10 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I Love Big Jugs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Want a Big Truck T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Leading Should Feel This Way S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McMurray must be Castrated T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ne Plus Ultra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pure Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Send Town S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Unknown 5.10c S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
VROS ArĂȘte T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,750 total · 30/month
Shared By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Description

Bouldery start to the first bolt. Follow face holds through the second and third bolt. Make a very long reach and pull through to the fourth bolt. Softens up a bit after the fourth bolt to the anchors. Guidebook says 5.10d, area consensus is 5.10a.

Location

Walk to the far right end of the crag and ascend the trail. You will come to a small bouldering cave on the left side. Look up and you will see the first bolt above the cave.

Protection

4 bolts to ring anchors. Consider a spotter or crash pad when setting the first bolt.

Photos

Andrew R.
Linden, VA
 
Andrew R.   Linden, VA
 
Fun start with different types of holds for this crag. You can crimp! Getting from the 4th both up and over to where you clip from is not only REACHY its also pretty lame and breaks up the flow of the route. Dont get sucked in under the roof with the great r.hand side pull. Its tough to get back out to the face and go for the reach. Jun 22, 2011
claty  
I'm 5'4" and I didn't think this route was reachy. There is a great intermediate crimper/dish that you can use to get to the jug. Aug 5, 2013
Colin Dandridge
Golden
  5.10a
Colin Dandridge   Golden
  5.10a
To make the route a true 5.10b, the left wall is off. If you use the 'cheater ledge' the climb is more 5.9ish Feb 8, 2015
Tom00 ES
Fairfax, VA
  5.10a
Tom00 ES   Fairfax, VA
  5.10a
Highlight of the route is the boulder problem to the first bolt. Don't be tempted to skip it! Feb 18, 2018
Sam S
  5.10a/b
Sam S  
  5.10a/b
Very fun and certainly a bit different for the area. Favorite climb of the day thanks to the start and the setting up the hill a bit (this crag can get crowded!) It felt about 10b with the left wall completely off. Probably 5.9- if you use the left wall and corner a lot Mar 28, 2018
Sorry this isn't beta, but it's super important (to me). I was at Talking Headwall yesterday (4/21) at Pure Energy (furthest right crag) and left my camera with GB of photos on it. Lumix w/ Leica lens in grey bag. Major karma points if it could find it's way back to me! Please email if you have any information of whereabouts: elizabethtyson dot kate at gmail dot com. Apr 22, 2018
I saw your camera! Someone had picked it up and put it on top of the dead stump by the road at the very start of the path into Talking Headwall. It was there when I left around 4ish yesterday. I bet it's still there. Apr 23, 2018

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