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Routes in Talking Headwall

Angry Muppets T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Balls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Discontinuance (Continuance post-rockfall) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Bastard S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Foops T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fortis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Love Big Jugs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Want a Big Truck T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Leading Should Feel This Way S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McMurray must be Castrated T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ne Plus Ultra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pure Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Send Town S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
VROS ArĂȘte T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
unknown, 5.10 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,341 total, 29/month
Shared By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

Bouldery start to the first bolt. Follow face holds through the second and third bolt. Make a very long reach and pull through to the fourth bolt. Softens up a bit after the fourth bolt to the anchors. Guidebook says 5.10d, area consensus is 5.10a.

Location

Walk to the far right end of the crag and ascend the trail. You will come to a small bouldering cave on the left side. Look up and you will see the first bolt above the cave.

Protection

4 bolts to ring anchors. Consider a spotter or crash pad when setting the first bolt.

Photos

Colin Dandridge
Golden
  5.10a
Colin Dandridge   Golden
  5.10a
To make the route a true 5.10b, the left wall is off. If you use the 'cheater ledge' the climb is more 5.9ish Feb 8, 2015
claty  
I'm 5'4" and I didn't think this route was reachy. There is a great intermediate crimper/dish that you can use to get to the jug. Aug 5, 2013
Andrew R.
Linden, VA
 
Andrew R.   Linden, VA
 
Fun start with different types of holds for this crag. You can crimp! Getting from the 4th both up and over to where you clip from is not only REACHY its also pretty lame and breaks up the flow of the route. Dont get sucked in under the roof with the great r.hand side pull. Its tough to get back out to the face and go for the reach. Jun 22, 2011