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Routes in Talking Headwall

Angry Muppets T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Balls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Discontinuance (Continuance post-rockfall) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Bastard S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Foops T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fortis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Love Big Jugs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Want a Big Truck T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Leading Should Feel This Way S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McMurray must be Castrated T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ne Plus Ultra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pure Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Send Town S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
VROS ArĂȘte T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
unknown, 5.10 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: John Gathright, Lisa Lewis, Mark Morgan
Page Views: 2,818 total, 31/month
Shared By: John Gathright on Aug 9, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the route just to the right of MCurry. Be aware of one or two loose blocks along the way. Aim for the right-hand notch at the top.

Location

Just to the right of MCurry.

Protection

Small to medium cams and nuts. Bring along some long webbing to rig a top belay from one of the trees, as there are no fixed anchors here.

Photos

BrianWS  
I've led this and many neighboring sport routes on gear. While they take gear well, I don't trust the rock quality on the blocky and easier routes, especially after blocks have literally fallen out of the cliff line with bolts and all. Feb 13, 2017
jmicher
Silver Spring, MD and Pittsbur
 
jmicher   Silver Spring, MD and Pittsbur
 
Finally got on this. Set a TR anchor and rappelled down to check for trad placements. Top is ok, bottom sucks though. The first possible spot is a very narrow crack, maybe 6" long, you can't see it from the ground, 12-15? feet up. Slightly flaring out. It wouldn't safely take my smallest tricam (black sling). May take a red or yellow X4, will check next time. After that, it should be easy climbing and placements. Aug 7, 2016
Simon Kwok  
 
Lead this last week and it's definitely not climbed much since it was covered in spider webs. There really isn't much protection at the bottom, but the moves aren't particularly hard. Jul 18, 2016
jmicher
Silver Spring, MD and Pittsbur
 
jmicher   Silver Spring, MD and Pittsbur
 
Has anyone lead this with gear? Last time I was there I checked it out and couldn't figure out how to get started safely.. didn't look like there were any good gear placements. Apr 4, 2016