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Areas in Elizabeth Furnace

Buzzard Rocks 15 / 10 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Talking Headwall 6 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Elevation: 1,000 ft
GPS: 38.947, -78.302 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 89,458 total · 717/month
Shared By: franciscov on Nov 22, 2007 with updates
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

Description

Elizabeth Furnace is divided into two sections. Buzzard Rocks and the Talking Headwall. Buzzard rock offers slab climbing with great exposure to the valley below. The Talking Headwall is at the base of the valley and offers big overhangs on friendly jugs. You're not going to find a lifetime of climbing at either crag but you can find some quality moderate routes in a beautiful setting.

If you want to take a break from climbing take a dip in Passage Creek. There are some great swimming holes and the cool water temps are great in the summer. There are hundreds of miles of hiking trails in the George Washington Forest. For the fishermen out there Passage creek is a stocked creek, and offers some great fly or bait fishing.

Don't forget to stop at Waterlick Grocery and show your support to the locals. The owner supports climbing and sells light gear. Anything you need to know about the Elizabeth Furnace/Fort Valley area can be found here. I've also heard the burritos are fantastic!

Getting There

From the East-
Take I-66 West to Route 55 West towards Front Royal. Stay on 55 West until the town of Waterlick. Turn left onto Powells Fort Road (Route 678). Drive about 1.2 miles on 678 then turn left onto Mountain Road (Route 619).

Guidebooks

Rakkup: Rakkup mobile guidebook is available on rakkup.com. Download the app and keep all your guidebooks handy. Once dowloaded, app requires no cell service to operate. See trails, beta, topos, and get gps waypoint navigation. http://rakkup.com/guidebooks/elizabeth-furnace-rock-climbing/

39 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Elizabeth Furnace

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Failure to Communicate
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raising Arizona
Sport
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Anonymous Flake Right
Trad, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Half and Half
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love Big Jugs
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Melungian Brotherhood
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ass Cannibal
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pulp Friction
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
The Bulge
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fortis
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pure Energy
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Adam Kopley Memorial Route
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Balls
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Foops
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leading Should Feel This Way
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Failure to Communicate Buzzard Rocks
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Raising Arizona Buzzard Rocks
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Anonymous Flake Right Buzzard Rocks
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, TR
Half and Half Buzzard Rocks
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport
I Love Big Jugs Talking Headwall
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Melungian Brotherhood Buzzard Rocks
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Ass Cannibal Buzzard Rocks
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Pulp Friction Buzzard Rocks
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
The Bulge Buzzard Rocks
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Fortis Talking Headwall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Pure Energy Talking Headwall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Adam Kopley Memorial Route Buzzard Rocks
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Big Balls Talking Headwall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Foops Talking Headwall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Leading Should Feel This Way Talking Headwall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Elizabeth Furnace »

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Photos

Hey climbers! I’m living in Fort Valley and looking for a climbing partner. I’ve climbed for 4 years in Colorado, Wyoming, and Utah. Although Virginia is not the Rockies, I’m excited to see what it has to offer. Let me know if you are up for a rocking awesome day of climbing! I’m ready for one. Nov 23, 2017
Francisco Fuentes
Manassas, Va
Francisco Fuentes   Manassas, Va
Gear found and recovered on July 2nd, looks to be bail draws and biner from the thunderstorms that popped up on the 1st. If it's yours, tell me what you left behind and I'll make sure it gets back to you. Jul 3, 2017
This is also a great place to fly fish after your burned climbing. You do need an extra trout license though.

Lots of places to throw up a hammock too and the campground is just 2mi or so down the road. Jun 24, 2017
Francisco Fuentes
Manassas, Va
Francisco Fuentes   Manassas, Va
Hello all, I just wanted to say the new rakkup guide is now available. All beta is downloaded to the in phone app. Access all the routes, topos, trails & waypoint navigation off your phone. Once downloaded no service is required, so you can have the beta while out of cell service range.

rakkup.com/guidebooks/eliza…
Rakkup guide Apr 27, 2017
I climbed at Buzzard rocks yesterday and thought I could add some details that would've helped us out.

To get to Buzzard Rocks: Turn left onto Mountain Road to go to Buzzard Rocks. Drive ~1.2 miles to a parking lot on the right side of the road. The lot is labeled "Buzzard Rocks Trail". The trail to get to the crag is an easy 4.0 miles, marked with white "i"s the entire way. It will be obvious when you get to the crag, but hiking to the base of the cliff was tricky since the trail was overgrown. We rappelled to avoid bushwacking.

To get to Talking Headwall: Drive past the turnoff to Mountain Creek about 0.5 miles. Park immediately off of Fort Valley Road as soon as the road first runs parallel to Passage Creek (creek on left, rock face on right). Dec 7, 2015
The waterlick grocery store appears to be closed permanently however I highly recommend Holy Moly Potato Donut shop on Strasburg. You can get donuts made with mashed potatoes (surprisingly awesome) as well as well as beef bulgogi burgers. Jul 5, 2015

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