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Routes in Buzzard Rocks

Adam Kopley Memorial Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anonymous Flake - Left Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Anonymous Flake Right T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Arêtetrifying S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Arêtetrifying Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ass Cannibal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bulge, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buzzard Guts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cortez the Killer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Failure to Communicate S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Half and Half S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Kimberly T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Like a Hurricane T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Melungian Brotherhood S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscure Adventure T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prajapati S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pulp Friction S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Raising Arizona S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rather be Sk8boarding T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Amigos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Three Amigos Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Three Amigos Double Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unknown 1 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
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Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,110 total · 40/month
Shared By: Davis13au on Mar 22, 2010 with updates from Nick Leiby
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

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Description

Long slab route that has some thin spots but is pretty fun. Good place to practice leads. I'm not sure about 5.8 but that's what it's currently rated at.

Location

South of the first down climb area and just to the right of Ass Cannibal

Protection

7 bolts and a few good places to place pro. #1 cam or a pink Tricam works well. This route now has a 2-bolt anchor with rap rings, on a ledge that is great for top-managed belays. The walkoff is easy from this ledge.

Photos

Mark Maier
  5.8
Mark Maier  
  5.8
I think this is one of the best slab routes at Buzzard's. Unlike most of the others it has reasonably sustained climbing at a constant level, instead of just a few moves interspersed with long easy stretches. Sep 9, 2012
Travis Senor
Mailing Address in NC
 
Travis Senor   Mailing Address in NC
 
Sustained and slabby. Great route. Be careful not to follow the weakness too far to the right...unless you have gear. Sep 22, 2013
TyrelJ
Alexandria, VA
TyrelJ   Alexandria, VA
Great route. A large tree near the base of the climb broke midway up the trunk and fell over (sometime before August 2014). Doesn't affect the route but makes a fall near the start (or a fall by the belayer) a potential problem. Aug 11, 2014
Spencer Perry
  5.7+
Spencer Perry  
  5.7+
My partner and I did not want to have to hike back down after we topped out, so I slung a tree and we rapped with a 70m rope, knowing we wouldn't get to the ground with the plan to swing over to another tree for a second rap. With rope stretch, and an extended rappel (2.5 ft), we made it to the first bolt and were able to down climb from there (probably class 4 climbing). Saved a ton of time and grabbed the sling on the way back to the car. Apr 4, 2016
Fan Zhang
Washington, DC
  5.8
Fan Zhang   Washington, DC
  5.8
Two bolt anchor and rings at the top as of 10/30/16.

With a 60m rope, you can get down by first rappelling from the top (or being lowered with your belayer staying just below the first bolt), then traversing left to the bolted anchor for Kimberly, and then doing another short rappel to the ground. Alternatively, belay your follower up from the top and then walk off. Oct 30, 2016
AlexJordan
Cambridge, MA
 
AlexJordan   Cambridge, MA
 
Climbed this with a 70 meter rope, which was not long enough to belay a climber or rappel down to the ledge below the first bolt. We ended up belaying down to the tree on the left side of the climb, even with the second/third bolts, and rappelling down from that tree. Climber should have some long slings to rappel off the tree, and then they'll be fine. May 8, 2017
Wendy L  
80m rope is exactly long enough to get down to the nice belay ledge below the first bolt. Oct 10, 2017
Just to the left of Ass cannibal Jan 25, 2018
A J
Washington, DC
  5.8
A J   Washington, DC
  5.8
We climbed the 5.easy terrain to the first bolt, slung the pine tree just below it, and belayed from there. Our 70 m rope was sufficient. May 14, 2018

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