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Routes in Buzzard Rocks

Adam Kopley Memorial Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anonymous Flake Right T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Arêtetrifying S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Arêtetrifying Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ass Cannibal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bulge, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buzzard Guts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cortez the Killer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Failure to Communicate S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Half and Half S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Kimberly T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Like a Hurricane T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Melungian Brotherhood S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscure Adventure T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prajapati S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pulp Friction T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Raising Arizona S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rather be Sk8boarding T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Amigos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Three Amigos Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Three Amigos Double Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unknown 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mark Fletcher
Page Views: 166 total · 10/month
Shared By: peterkd5bwt on Oct 8, 2016
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

This route goes up the center of the slab. Start at a discontinuous crack with two small trees growing out of the crack. Touching these trees with your feet or hands is off route and bad karma – let them live! Move up to a stance where you clip the first bolt and then dance your way up past two more bolts. The crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolt.

At the 4th bolt, join the “Adam Kopley Memorial Route” and climb up the previously mentioned crack and then past two bolts. Near the top, do not go left, but rather go straight up to a crack. If you go slightly left and then right to the crack above the last bolt, you will drop the grade to 5.10a, so get the full value and go straight up. A Grey Alien cam or equivalent may be handy in the crack. Finish at the horizontal ledge with two Metolius rappel bolts. A single rope rappel will get you to the bottom.

First ascent: Mark Fletcher (roped solo), June 3, 2012.

Location

This route is in the center of the Super Slab area. Follow approach directions for the Adam Kopley Memorial Route.

Protection

Six bolts plus Purple and Grey Alien cams or equivalent

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