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Routes in Buzzard Rocks

Adam Kopley Memorial Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anonymous Flake Right T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Arêtetrifying S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Arêtetrifying Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ass Cannibal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bulge, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buzzard Guts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cortez the Killer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Failure to Communicate S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Half and Half S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Kimberly T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Like a Hurricane T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Melungian Brotherhood S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscure Adventure T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prajapati S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pulp Friction T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Raising Arizona S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rather be Sk8boarding T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Amigos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Three Amigos Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Three Amigos Double Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unknown 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mark Fletcher
Page Views: 1,176 total, 81/month
Shared By: peterkd5bwt on Oct 8, 2016
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

This route is dedicated to Adam Kopley, who died in a climbing accident on April 6, 2012 during when Mark was developing this route. This route starts out fairly easy at a short vertical crack on the left side of the slab. There is some lichen here, but all of the holds are clean. Work your way up to a very short side pull crack. Although you could put in a cam here, it is not needed since a bolt is right above. From here the climb becomes a friction-fest, but is well protected until a right-tending discontinuous crack. The crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolt. A Purple Alien cam was used midway up this discontinuous crack during the first ascent. Above the crack, go up the slab to the left on finger pocket cracks past three more bolts. Near the top, stay on the left side of the slab, but do not use the left edge of the slab or the crack in the center of the slab.

First ascent: Mark Fletcher (roped solo), June 3, 2012.

Location

Left-most climb on the Super Slab Area. Descend by rappelling the route with a single 60m rope.

See approach map. Approach these areas by going down the descent trail to reach “Rather Be S8boarding” and other climbs. The bottom of the cliff with “Rather Be S8boarding”, continue down and move right along a wall. When you reach the wall on the right, go down through a slight opening in the green briar and mountain laurel to a talus slope. Continue down the talus slope to a group of slabs on the left. The natural cave at the bottom of the slabs marks the start of “Arêtetrifying”. If you want to get to “Zig Zag” work your way through bushes around the bottom of the slabs and then up to a ledge where “Zig Zag” starts.

From the “Arêtetrifying” area to get to the Super Slab area, continue down a very steep dirt slope. Then turn right and traverse to pick up a faint trail which goes down steep dirt slopes for about 125-150’ to the base of a wall. Traverse right (north) along the base of the wall to the end. Continue through a brushy area to the base of Super Slab. This trail is very slippery, thus hiking poles may be advised until the leaves and loose material clean up. Please do not create additional trails to this area as only one is needed. I have hiked in by other ways, but they all require steep down climbing or rappels, so use the trail mentioned. Please do the best to maintain the build-up of dirt and pine needles at the base of Super Slab.

Protection

Seven bolts plus Purple Alien cam or equivalent, optional 1" cam. Two Metolius rappel bolts on a narrow horizontal ledge at the top of the climb.
J.J. Bremberg
Fairfax, VA
J.J. Bremberg   Fairfax, VA
The instructions on getting to this slab are a long, but still don't really do it justice. Getting to this area definitely requires significantly more "bush-whacking" (descending a short, steep, and poorly defined trail) than the other areas at Buzzards, but I found the slab to be challenging and worth the short trek. Easiest description of the route is a longer and more challenging version of "Pulp Friction." Sep 11, 2017