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Routes in Talking Headwall

Angry Muppets T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Balls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Discontinuance (Continuance post-rockfall) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Bastard S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Foops T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fortis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Love Big Jugs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Want a Big Truck T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Leading Should Feel This Way S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McMurray must be Castrated T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ne Plus Ultra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pure Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Send Town S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
VROS ArĂȘte T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
unknown, 5.10 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,213 total, 62/month
Shared By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008 with updates
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

Easy 5.6 climbing for the first three bolts leads to the 5.8 crux. There is not a crux move, it is 25 feet of sustained climbing. Great clipping holds for the next two bolts will get you to the anchors.

Location

When looking at the crag this is the bolted line farthest to the left.

Protection

5 bolts and ring anchors. I've heard of people setting a cam between the 3rd and 4th bolt, there is definite decking possibilities here. A red BD cam is recommended at the top, before the last bolt to prevent decking in case of a fall.
Jeff Beavers  
 
I definitely recommend the cam if you have any chance of falling. There is a large ledge half way up, and if you fall before the bolt it might as well be a ground fall with some extra tumble. May 23, 2016
Budman252  
 
Another fun route that you can do without the bolts. Takes great gear! Jul 7, 2012
Andrew R.
Linden, VA
 
Andrew R.   Linden, VA
 
Good Warm up for the area May 4, 2011