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Routes in Buzzard Rocks

Adam Kopley Memorial Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anonymous Flake Right T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
ArĂȘtetrifying S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
ArĂȘtetrifying Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ass Cannibal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bulge, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buzzard Guts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cortez the Killer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Failure to Communicate S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Half and Half S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Kimberly T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Like a Hurricane T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Melungian Brotherhood S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscure Adventure T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prajapati S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pulp Friction T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Raising Arizona S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rather be Sk8boarding T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Amigos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Three Amigos Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Three Amigos Double Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unknown 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,382 total, 36/month
Shared By: Davis13au on Mar 22, 2010 with updates
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Description

Didn't name it :) Another long slab climb that gets thin in spots but is a great climb to practice leading on. This one really goes more like 5.7 at best.

If lowering, be sure to belay from the ledge just directly next to the wall with a 70 Meter rope and from the trail.

Start climbing on the darker colored slab. Make a fun move to gain the roof and continue up the face. Make an awkward move around a small tree growing out of the rock. Then cruise up the more featured face to the two bolt anchor.

Location

Just to the right of Melungian Brotherhood.

Protection

6 bolts and will take lots of pro. This route now has a 2-bolt anchor with rap rings.

Photos

Sean Creegan
Kansas City, MO
  5.8
Sean Creegan   Kansas City, MO
  5.8
I led this on April 1, 2017. The two anchor bolts at the top are in good condition. Be sure to have a 70m rope if you plan on lowering vs. topping out; you'll use ever last inch of it! The slab portion at the beginning was underwhelming, but after pulling over the first bulge, the climbing becomes fantastic. Don't forget to enjoy the view as you cruise through the second half.

The "small tree" mentioned in the beta should be the first one you see in your path; head to the left of it or you'll run into rope trouble. Apr 2, 2017
Fan Zhang
Washington, DC
  5.8
Fan Zhang   Washington, DC
  5.8
Two bolt anchor and rings at the top as of 10/30/16. Personally I found the climbing more enjoyable, consistent, and easier than Melungian Brotherhood. Oct 30, 2016
Could be done without any trad gear if comfortable on real easy terrain. Could use some cleaning though at the top Jun 9, 2016
MealyM Mealy
Frankfurt
 
MealyM Mealy   Frankfurt
 
Calling this a "sport" climb is a little misleading since it requires placing gear in several spots. A good climb if you lead trad or are learning to. Make sure to bring some longer cord to set up the belay at the top - there are plenty of boulders and trees you can sling. Apr 21, 2013
Chris Seminack
Oakwood
 
Chris Seminack   Oakwood
 
Fun climb. Bottom half is sport and then after the undercling flake it turns into trad in the 5.4 range. Tons of trees to lasso on the way up. Top this one out! Oct 10, 2011