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Routes in Buzzard Rocks

Adam Kopley Memorial Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anonymous Flake Right T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Arêtetrifying S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Arêtetrifying Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ass Cannibal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bulge, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buzzard Guts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cortez the Killer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Failure to Communicate S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Half and Half S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Kimberly T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Like a Hurricane T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Melungian Brotherhood S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscure Adventure T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prajapati S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pulp Friction T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Raising Arizona S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rather be Sk8boarding T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Amigos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Three Amigos Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Three Amigos Double Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unknown 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mark Fletcher
Page Views: 238 total, 16/month
Shared By: peterkd5bwt on Oct 8, 2016
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

This route goes up the right side of the slab. Try not to knock down the pile of pine needles and soil at the base otherwise the start will get harder. Go up the slab to a bolt and then gradually move left past two more bolts. Continue up past another bolt. Then move slightly left thorough sections with fingernail holds. There is a lot of lichen here, but with traffic the lichen will clean up. Move up to a steeper slab and reach up to clip a bolt. Mantle onto the top of the slab. Do not use the right edge of the slab, which is off route.

While there are two bolts on the ledge to the left, they are not ideal for belaying. Rather, walk up the slope about 30 feet and sling a tree to set up the belay anchor, which can be extended back to the top of the slab. This climb is deceptive in that it looks easy, but the holds are not very big. A single rope rappel from the two bolts will get you to the bottom.

First ascent: Mark Fletcher (rope solo), June 3, 2012.

Location

Rightmost route at the Super Slab; follow approach directions for the Adam Kopley Memorial Route.

Protection

Six bolts, tree at top

Photos

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