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Routes in Buzzard Rocks

Adam Kopley Memorial Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anonymous Flake Right T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Arêtetrifying S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Arêtetrifying Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ass Cannibal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bulge, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buzzard Guts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cortez the Killer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Failure to Communicate S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Half and Half S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Kimberly T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Like a Hurricane T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Melungian Brotherhood S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscure Adventure T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prajapati S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pulp Friction T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Raising Arizona S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rather be Sk8boarding T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Amigos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Three Amigos Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Three Amigos Double Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unknown 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,201 total, 61/month
Shared By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

Slab climbing to a lone bolt. Clip it and make the crux move of getting to the large flake. Follow the flake up and right placing finger to hand sized gear. Make an anchor on the tree at the summit. Not as hard as it looks from the ground, this is a great route. Bring a 60 meter rope, you'll use most of it.

Location

Follow the base trail until you reach the tallest face on the wall. The large flake above will be very obvious to spot.

GPS- 38,56,27 -78,18,9,

Protection

Bring .5-2 Camalots and some larger nuts. One bolt on the climb. Bring your own webbing to lower from the trees at the top.

Photos

There are four routes here. The A Flake climbs the left side past two underclings, to the right facing flake, and then follows the flake up and right to a ledge and gear anchor. The left var. follows the same start but instead of breaking right continues straight up onto the flake, past a bolt, and without moving left to the edge of the flake straight up to the bolt anchor. The direct var. climbs up the slab, past the bolt to the flake, continuing onto the flake and a bolt, and without moving right to the edge of the flake straight up to the bolt anchor. The final route is right of the flake and follows easier slab climbing, past the bolt, and straight up to the same finish as the standard A Flake. Jul 20, 2017
Spencer Perry
  5.7+ PG13
Spencer Perry  
  5.7+ PG13
Gear is sparse before the bolt, but the climbing is pretty mild. Definitely the best trad route at Buzzard Rocks if you are comfortable running out on the slab. Apr 4, 2016
Colin Dandridge
Golden
  5.8
Colin Dandridge   Golden
  5.8
I agree with both of them. Feb 8, 2015
Travis Senor
Mailing Address in NC
  5.7+
Travis Senor   Mailing Address in NC
  5.7+
Fantastic climb. Doesn't seem quite like a 5.8, maybe 5.7+ at the crux between the bolt and the flake, but the crux is relatively short. Hold and feet are all good, just need a little balance!

And definitely watch the large hollow rock to the right most of the distance below the bolt. Sep 22, 2013
Mike Hensley
Lafayette, CO
  5.8 PG13
Mike Hensley   Lafayette, CO
  5.8 PG13
I found the pro to be a little bit tricky in places. Furthermore, the large exfoliation flake on the right is completely hollow. Time bomb. Once you hit the bolt, the pro issues end. The namesake flake is very solid. Sep 17, 2013