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Routes in Buzzard Rocks

Adam Kopley Memorial Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anonymous Flake Right T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Arêtetrifying S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Arêtetrifying Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ass Cannibal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bulge, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buzzard Guts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cortez the Killer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Failure to Communicate S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Half and Half S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Kimberly T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Like a Hurricane T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Melungian Brotherhood S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscure Adventure T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prajapati S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pulp Friction T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Raising Arizona S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rather be Sk8boarding T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Amigos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Three Amigos Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Three Amigos Double Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unknown 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,318 total · 30/month
Shared By: Mark Maier on Nov 5, 2011
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

The double direct climbs the cracks on the two faces to the left of the Three Amigos flakes. Start up a zig-zaggy crack in the licheny face. At the top of the face cross the brushy ledge and climb the double cracks through a roof.

Location

You encounter the Double Direct start on the trail just before Three Amigos. From the belay at the top you can walk back down on the trail.

Protection

You can slot almost anything from finger to hand size in the cracks along most of the route. A new leader could practice here with practically any gear he or she has.

Photos

Buzzards had a bunch of two bolt anchor stations. The farther north you go. They are almost all bolted anchors and 70m rope is needed to lower. Jan 25, 2018
Mark Maier  
 
Last time I was there you used trees. Very few routes at Buzzard's have bolt anchors. You generally build your own at the top. May 28, 2017
What do we use to lower?
there doesn't seem to be bolt anchors mentioned in the description. are there any trees to anchor or rap down from? Apr 13, 2017
Fan Zhang
Washington, DC
 
Fan Zhang   Washington, DC
 
As of 10/30/16, there were at least a couple loose blocks just before the bushy ledge halfway up the route. Nov 2, 2016

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