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Routes in Buzzard Rocks

Adam Kopley Memorial Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anonymous Flake Right T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Arêtetrifying S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Arêtetrifying Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ass Cannibal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bulge, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buzzard Guts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cortez the Killer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Failure to Communicate S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Half and Half S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Kimberly T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Like a Hurricane T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Melungian Brotherhood S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscure Adventure T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prajapati S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pulp Friction T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Raising Arizona S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rather be Sk8boarding T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Amigos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Three Amigos Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Three Amigos Double Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unknown 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,940 total, 27/month
Shared By: Keegan Dimmick on Feb 3, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

Very good climbing on with some great movements and holds. Crux seemed to the starting the route and the bulge at the top. There are some run out spots on easier terrain, may want to bring some smaller nuts or cams. The top half was pretty dirty so I don't think this route sees a lot of ascents.

Location

Around 200 feet to the south of Raising Arizona, look for arching rock and a first bolt you could clip from the ground.

Protection

10 bolts, small set of nuts, and some webbing for the top anchor. I belayed my second from a tree about ten feet below the clifline.

Photos

A 70m rope does NOT reach the bottom, even on rappel. But, as stated above, you can reach the ledge to the left and down climb 8-10 feet of pine straw covered 3rd class. Sep 4, 2017
AlexJordan
Cambridge, MA
 
AlexJordan   Cambridge, MA
 
With a 70m rope, you can't quite belay your climber all the way to the bottom of the climb, but if you belay from the ledge to the left of the start (about 8 feet up from the start), or lower your climber to that ledge, the rope will reach the bottom of the climb. It's an easy scramble up to/down from the ledge. May 8, 2017
There are two new bolts with rings at the top. A 70M rope just reaches the bottom (with stretch). You will be pulling the rope out of your rappel device as your feet hit the ground. The route is pretty clean now and sees a lot of traffic. The original description is a little old. Feb 20, 2017
Thad P  
Adam is correct. Don't belay or toprope from the tree 10 feet below the top of the rock. It is not safe. There's a solid tree just behind the top of the rock face.

Great climb. Apr 12, 2014
Adam Marcus
Salt Lake City, UT
Adam Marcus   Salt Lake City, UT
The obvious belay tree that's about 10 feet below the top of the rock wall had some plastic taped around the base and didn't look strong enough to support a day of toproping. So instead, I built an anchor using 50 feet of static rope with one end tied around a big solid tree behind the top of the rock face and the other tied around a flake about 10 feet to the right of the normal belay tree. I then top-roped the route and placed some trad pro so my sportclimbing friends could "lead" the route. I used a #8 BD stopper (gold), and #10 BD stopper (grey), and a #3 Camalot C4 (blue). There was a fairly blank spot about 30-40 feet up where I couldn't find a spot to place any pro so I climbed a little higher and used a long cordalette attached to the cam. Apr 6, 2014
Mark Maier
  5.9
Mark Maier  
  5.9
There are two cruxes, one over the first overhang and one over the overhang near the top. Both are protected by bolts above you. I think the upper one is 5.9 if you take it straight on and don't slide around to the right. Sep 9, 2012
Mark Maier
  5.9
Mark Maier  
  5.9


As you walk south from Raising Arizona a flake forms an overhang very close to ground level. There are two bolts on top of the overhang. The left hand bolt starts The Bulge. The right hand bolt starts Half and Half. Sep 9, 2012