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Routes in Buzzard Rocks

Adam Kopley Memorial Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anonymous Flake Right T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Arêtetrifying S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Arêtetrifying Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ass Cannibal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bulge, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buzzard Guts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cortez the Killer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Failure to Communicate S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Half and Half S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Kimberly T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Like a Hurricane T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Melungian Brotherhood S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscure Adventure T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prajapati S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pulp Friction T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Raising Arizona S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rather be Sk8boarding T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Amigos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Three Amigos Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Three Amigos Double Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unknown 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad
FA: Mark Fletcher and Josh Shifflet
Page Views: 132 total, 9/month
Shared By: peterkd5bwt on Oct 8, 2016
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

Climb up “Arêtetrifying” to the third bolt and put a very long sling on this bolt. Traverse right on rock with lots of lichen using a large flake for foot holds and a horizontal crack for hand holds. Do not put a cam into the crack used for a foothold since it is flexible!

Put a long sling on a small tree growing on a dirt ledge. Then use cams in the wide crack on the right while you make a crux move onto the top of the slab. Use either micro cams and nuts or large (3 – 5”) cams to set up a belay on the ledge. Make 4th class moves down the top of the wall to the two rappel rings and then descend on a single rope.

First ascent: Mark Fletcher and Josh Shifflet, February 18, 2012.

Location

See approach map for Adam Kopley Memorial Route

Protection

Three bolts, three double length slings, and appropriate cams

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