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Routes in Buzzard Rocks

Adam Kopley Memorial Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anonymous Flake Right T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Arêtetrifying S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Arêtetrifying Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ass Cannibal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bulge, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buzzard Guts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cortez the Killer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Failure to Communicate S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Half and Half S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Kimberly T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Like a Hurricane T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Melungian Brotherhood S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscure Adventure T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prajapati S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pulp Friction T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Raising Arizona S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rather be Sk8boarding T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Amigos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Three Amigos Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Three Amigos Double Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unknown 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 894 total, 11/month
Shared By: GonnaBe on Mar 27, 2011 with updates
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

Look for the single bolt in the slab to the right of Three Amigos. Typical slab climbing on small features brings you to a few good stances where you can place smaller gear below the bolt. Continue past the bolt and straight up for the block and tree behind it. Lots of options at the top for building an anchor including the tree. Easy walk down since you're right next to the trail.

Location

At the north end of the crag just after the walk down and 15' right of Three Amigos.

Protection

Bring smaller cams for a few placements below the bolt. Some of the features may look tempting but probably wouldn't hold a fall. You can also bail left to get a piece or two in the large flake on climber's left.

Two bolt anchor with rings.

Photos

Definitely trickier movement than Raising Arizona (5.7), but much shorter. Pretty sparse on gear and a long run-out at the top after the bolt. Probably not the best for a new trad leader Apr 4, 2016