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Routes in Buzzard Rocks

Adam Kopley Memorial Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anonymous Flake - Left Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Anonymous Flake Right T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Arêtetrifying S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Arêtetrifying Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ass Cannibal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bulge, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Buzzard Guts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cortez the Killer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Failure to Communicate S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Half and Half S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Kimberly T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Like a Hurricane T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Melungian Brotherhood S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obscure Adventure T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prajapati S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pulp Friction S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Raising Arizona S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rather be Sk8boarding T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Amigos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Three Amigos Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Three Amigos Double Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
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Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,593 total · 46/month
Shared By: Adam Marcus on Apr 6, 2014 with updates from Nick Leiby and 1 other
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

The bottom is easy slabby, but some people may get a little freaked by the distance between bolts. The top is easy, whith the crux move getting over a small roof near the top. There are left and right variations at the crux that finish at different spots (and probably require a bit of trad gear for the rest of the route). You can easily split the route into two pitches with a decent ledge and tree about 50 feet from the bottom. Makes for a good intro to real multi-pitch climbing. Good stances for clipping all the bolts.

Location

The route tops out on the ridge trail, from which you can hike back down or rappel. A 60-meter rope is too short to rappel from the bolts but a 70-meter rope will work (it'll be close, though, so be sure to knot the ends). You could also do a 2-pitch rappel using the ledge and tree that's about 50 feet above the base.

Protection

UPDATE: AS of 4/23/2017, according to Nick Lieby, this route now has a 2-bolt anchor and rap rings.

You can climb it using just the 7 khaki-colored bolts, or you can protect the crux move with a ".5-"2 cam (I used a yellow #2 BD Camalot C4). The rest of the route is either well-bolted or easy slabs with nowhere to put trad pro even if you had it. Clip the first bolt from the ground before you start climbing. If you climb this using only the bolts and blow the crux you are likely to take a 40 foot tumble and deck. A single cam or slinging a tree is highly recommended. 

Photos

Jonathan Trowbridge
Richmond, Virginia
5.8-
Jonathan Trowbridge   Richmond, Virginia
5.8-
This route is perfect for someone's first mixed route! I noticed the first bolt of the anchor is a little rusted (9/28/14). If you're going to do it in one pitch you MUST have a 70m rope. Tie a naught on the be-layer's end, as the rope ran out as soon as I touched the ground.

To get to the route head past Ass Cannibal away from Pulp Friction and just keep left and work your way up not down. You'll know you found it when you come across a route that has a really low first bolt, starts on a ledge, and there's a slightly larger ledge further up with some trees before it. Sep 30, 2014
AlexJordan
Cambridge, MA
 
AlexJordan   Cambridge, MA
 
Great route with holds whenever you need them. You can set up a TR anchor at the top easily from the (new) bolts.

There's about 10-15ft at the top between the anchors for The Bulge (on the left) and Half and Half (on the right). May 8, 2017
Left bolt is loose, needs to be cranked down. Good, fun, straightforward route. I used a #1 cam under the obvious roof. May 18, 2017
Michael Poston
  5.7+ PG13
Michael Poston  
  5.7+ PG13
The run outs are run out. At first I thought I was missing/skipping a bolt. Nope, it is that far. My first time I used a BD #2 but it really was not necessary. That being said, I would still recommend some pro for your first time on it just in case. The really run out spots are really easy but gives a great thrill with the exposure.

There are anchors with rings though I thought it was a top out at first. Go up and to the right above the last bolt.

I belayed my partner up and she later aced it on lead without pro like a boss. With beta, don’t fret the runout and enjoy it.

70m works perfect from the higher ledge belay. Sling the tree if you’re paranoid about belaying from the ledge. 60m is probably too short though. Accessibility from the top could make for an easy TR or good spot for teaching how to rap. Apr 23, 2018
Patrick H
Arlington, VA
Patrick H   Arlington, VA
As of 10/21/18 the left bolt of the anchor is loose. Tried to tighten but no dice. Oct 22, 2018

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