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Routes in Buzzard Rocks
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Adam Kopley Memorial Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Anonymous Flake - Left Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Anonymous Flake Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Anonymous Flake Right T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Arêtetrifying S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Arêtetrifying Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ass Cannibal T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Bulge, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Buzzard Guts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cortez the Killer S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Double Nickel TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Edge of Sunshine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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El Gordo T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Failure to Communicate S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Goodnight Moon S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Half and Half T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Joaquin Phoenix V1+ 5 |
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Keep Off the Riff Raff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Kimberly T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Like a Hurricane T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Melungian Brotherhood T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Obscure Adventure T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Perfect Gift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Prajapati S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pulp Friction S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Raising Arizona S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rather be Sk8boarding T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Skating Party TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slope Surfer V7 7A+ |
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Slope Surfer Direct V5 6C |
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Sunrise Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sunset Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Three Amigos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Three Amigos Double Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Unknown 1 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown v0 V0 4 |
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Zig Zag T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | Ben Wyse, Wade Banks 11/30/'24 |
| Page Views: | 41 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Wyse on Dec 1, 2024 |
| Admins: | Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier |
Description
This route starts to the right of a giant tree and brush-filled right-facing corner that runs the entire height of the crag. Two possible starts; 1. Start in a short right-facing corner with a wide crack that ends at a roof 25' up. OR 2. Start by climbing past 3 bolts on the slab to the right of the corner. Pull through the middle of the roof. Once you pull the roof, the routes join at what is either the 1st or the 4th bolt. Near the top of the route, you will merge with the giant right-facing corner. Look for a high bolt that you can reach up and clip. After clipping the bolt, I think it is more fun to work a few more moves further up the corner before pulling through. Head up the the anchor at the top of the headwall.
Location
To the right of Goodnight Moon. Find bolts on a slab that to the right of a corner that leads up to a roof. Either climb the corner (some big cams would be useful) or climb past 3 bolts leading to the roof.
Protection
If you start in the corner, bring big cams. If you start up the bolted slab, there are 9 bolts and a few supplemental gear placements. Bring a set of nuts and small-medium cams. A green alien or equivalent protects the roof move between the 3rd and 4th bolts. There are two or three other places where intermediate gear placements will be nice. There is a top anchor that can be reached from above if you want to TR the route.
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