Whale's Lip Rock Climbing

A better way to access the routes, especially on the left side, of the Whales Lip is to rap in, just off the Ridge Trail. When hiking up from Weakly Hollow, after you do the 3rd class scramble, you are primarily on top of the formation. Head left and locate 2 old bolt studs and set a gear anchor nearby. Rap in with a 60m (sorry I can't recall if 60m will be long enough but there are bolted routes below so if necessary use a bolt to finish the rap). You don't want to pack in 2 ropes @ Old Rag. This will put you right at the base of the best climbs. You can continue to use the anchor until you climb out for the day. Basically all the left hand routes end at that spot. A lot better than bushwacking. Aug 21, 2012

Ed, I'm pretty sure you're describing the access to lower ridge trail slab not whales lip. Jan 15, 2014

The approach is after you make the 3rd class scramble on the trail. The Lower Ridge trail slab routes are after that funky corridor on the trail and before the 3rd class scramble (the only section of the trail where you have to actually climb). Apr 4, 2014