Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Whale's Lip

Autumn Harvest T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pincer Perfect T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thar She Blows T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Page Views: 1,474 total, 13/month
Shared By: C Runyan on Sep 5, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

Description

Classic Old Rag slab, which also means you should choose your route carefully: several climbs are run out or offer thin gear placements. Some routes require two ropes to rap.

Getting There

From Weakly Hollow, pass the Lower Ridge Slab up a steep section of trail to a small plateau of exposed rock with an eastward view (If you're coming from summit, the plateau is just past the 3-trunk tree and Bushwhack Trail for the Reflector Oven.)

From the plateau, head east down the slab and plunge into the undergrowth. Choose the trail on the left and meander to the Whale's Lip slab.

3 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Whale's Lip Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
The approach is after you make the 3rd class scramble on the trail. The Lower Ridge trail slab routes are after that funky corridor on the trail and before the 3rd class scramble (the only section of the trail where you have to actually climb). Apr 4, 2014
Chris Irwin
Silver Spring, Maryland
Chris Irwin   Silver Spring, Maryland
Ed, I'm pretty sure you're describing the access to lower ridge trail slab not whales lip. Jan 15, 2014
Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
A better way to access the routes, especially on the left side, of the Whales Lip is to rap in, just off the Ridge Trail. When hiking up from Weakly Hollow, after you do the 3rd class scramble, you are primarily on top of the formation. Head left and locate 2 old bolt studs and set a gear anchor nearby. Rap in with a 60m (sorry I can't recall if 60m will be long enough but there are bolted routes below so if necessary use a bolt to finish the rap). You don't want to pack in 2 ropes @ Old Rag. This will put you right at the base of the best climbs. You can continue to use the anchor until you climb out for the day. Basically all the left hand routes end at that spot. A lot better than bushwacking. Aug 21, 2012

More About Whale's Lip

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Whale's Lip (1)

Most Popular · Newest