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Routes in Wall That Dreams Are Made Of

April Fool AKA Jerry's Kid's T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Banana Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bushwhack Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bushwhack Face TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bushwhack Toprope TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Good Friday T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Swan Song T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
The, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: John Bercaw, 1989
Page Views: 6,721 total · 50/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Aug 10, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

Say goodbye to your knuckle-skin! The hardman tick of the state. You gotta drive to NC to find better crack than this! May or may not have anchors added up top; I heard they were installed by a Cville guy a while ago. Tape helps.

Location

Just downhill from Bushwhack.

Protection

Lots of small cams.

Photos

Dominic Albanese
Baltimore, MD
 
Dominic Albanese   Baltimore, MD
 
As of late august 07 there was a nice two bolt anchor just to the left on the slab above the top-out. Nice clean aid line. Oct 31, 2007
Nate26  
how many ascents has this thing seen. I put that anchor up and worked it a little but found it very hard. Substantially harder than Super Sunset, though maybe a little safer. Mar 25, 2008
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
I made a free ascent in about '97 on a visit home to C'ville. Nice work JB. Tasty, but sharp. Bring lots of tape--of course that is Old Rag in general. Apr 9, 2008
Awesome climb - atypical for the area. As I recall, it is fairly straightforward for the grade through the roof, followed by a brief section of desperate off-fingers to get established above the roof. Great pro. Great rock. The line was discovered by Greg Collins but the first ascent went to John Bercaw, second to Greg, third to me. Jul 26, 2018

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