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Routes in Wall That Dreams Are Made Of

April Fool AKA Jerry's Kid's T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Banana Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bushwhack Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bushwhack Face TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bushwhack Toprope TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Good Friday T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Swan Song T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
The, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,320 total · 17/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Aug 10, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

A fun thrash. I led this one with one #5 camalot and a set of old Chouinard tube chocks. Modern wide gear would be more expensive and shiny, not to mention probably more likely to get kicked out of place as you dolphin past it.

Location

A little downhill past The The.

Protection

Biggest cams you got and jeans with the ankles taped to your socks.

Photos

David Aguasca!
New York
  5.11-
David Aguasca!   New York
  5.11-
I protected this just fine with a new 5 camalot, 4 camalot, 2 camalot, and an old 3.5 camalot. Belay off the two bolt anchor at the top of The The, and be careful getting your rope stuck in the finger crack if you decide to TR it. Apr 2, 2013
#4-6 (even doubles) will make this safer to protect, unless your OW technique is dialed in. Oct 26, 2014

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