Type: Sport, TR, 57 ft (17 m)
GPS: 38.46364, -79.11138
FA: Ben Wyse 2021
Page Views: 929 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ben Wyse on Jun 29, 2022
Admins: Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Climb up easy rock below a big roof (Urohidrosis climbs across this roof) clipping a bolt on your way to a good stance.  Reach left to clip the second bolt and hand traverse under the roof and exit to the ledge (you pass a piton on the traverse).  Four options exist after this short section of climbing.  Begin the 5.7+ version of Jungle Gym by clipping a bolt while standing on the far right side of the ledge (a short draw makes a ledge fall less likely).  Climbing past this bolt and up to the big quick link (which joins two fixed nuts) is the crux.  There is a key hold that's tricky to find...  (DO NOT traverse all the way right to another bolt on the same face, that is a different variation)        

Here is a clip of Don Blume climbing through the crux of this variation.   youtube.com/shorts/E6DgHqReIBQ         

Location Suggest change

The beginning of this climb is below the big Urohidrosis roof.  There are four permanent draws on Urohidrosis.  This route (and 3 other options) start by climbing up below this roof and hand traversing left.      

Protection Suggest change

Bring 6 quick draws.  Regular sport draws work for this route, although using 12" draws on the first two bolts is kind of nice.  There are 5 bolts, a piton, and a 3/8" quick-link joining 2 fixed nuts.  The bolt that you clip from the second ledge has a perma-draw because I placed it in a location that was hard to see.  The top anchor has chains and steel carabiners.         

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