| Type: | Sport, TR, 57 ft (17 m) |
| GPS: | 38.46364, -79.11138 |
| FA: | Ben Wyse 2021 |
| Page Views: | 929 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Wyse on Jun 29, 2022 |
| Admins: | Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier |
Description
Climb up easy rock below a big roof (Urohidrosis climbs across this roof) clipping a bolt on your way to a good stance. Reach left to clip the second bolt and hand traverse under the roof and exit to the ledge (you pass a piton on the traverse). Four options exist after this short section of climbing. Begin the 5.7+ version of Jungle Gym by clipping a bolt while standing on the far right side of the ledge (a short draw makes a ledge fall less likely). Climbing past this bolt and up to the big quick link (which joins two fixed nuts) is the crux. There is a key hold that's tricky to find... (DO NOT traverse all the way right to another bolt on the same face, that is a different variation)
Here is a clip of Don Blume climbing through the crux of this variation. youtube.com/shorts/E6DgHqReIBQ
Location
The beginning of this climb is below the big Urohidrosis roof. There are four permanent draws on Urohidrosis. This route (and 3 other options) start by climbing up below this roof and hand traversing left.
Protection
Bring 6 quick draws. Regular sport draws work for this route, although using 12" draws on the first two bolts is kind of nice. There are 5 bolts, a piton, and a 3/8" quick-link joining 2 fixed nuts. The bolt that you clip from the second ledge has a perma-draw because I placed it in a location that was hard to see. The top anchor has chains and steel carabiners.
Photos
Videos



5 Comments