Elevation: 1,540 ft
GPS: 38.785, -79.29 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 25,382 total · 488/month
Shared By: wes calkins on Sep 7, 2014 with updates from TyrelJ and 1 other
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Low key sport climbing area located between Franklin and Petersburg. Limestone cliffs similar in nature to franklin gorge. South facing aspects see all day sun. Many routes from 5.7 to 5.12?

Getting There

Located near the northern terminus of reeds creek road and hwy 220 just south of the Upper Tract community. Limited parking is available. Once on reeds creek rd the cliff will be visible on the right. Parking will be ahead on the left in a small pullout. Walk back down the road and find a small set of rock steps through the grass that grants access to the far right end of the cliff.

40 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Reeds Creek Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Reeds Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 16
Second Rule
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
Superman
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
Winter Harvest
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Internal Dialogue
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 17
Little Purple Flowers
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Bridge Burner
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Sea of Tranquility
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Still Laughing
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Reaching Conclusions
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 8
Apophis
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
Catfish Strangler
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
La Machina
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 6
Shaolin Mantis
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Skywalker
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
The Big Show
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Second Rule
 16
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Superman
 17
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Winter Harvest
 20
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Internal Dialogue
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Little Purple Flowers
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Bridge Burner
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sea of Tranquility
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Still Laughing
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Reaching Conclusions
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Apophis
 8
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Catfish Strangler
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
La Machina
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Shaolin Mantis
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Skywalker
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Big Show
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Reeds Creek »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Make sure to get a copy of Mike Gray's "A Climber's Guide to Smoke Hole Canyon" for additional route details. Feb 24, 2015
Mike Gray's A Climber's Guide to Smoke Hole has a must-have (i.e., buy) map of Reed's Creek. Definitely a must buy to understanding this sport crag. Jun 15, 2015
TyrelJ
Alexandria, VA
TyrelJ   Alexandria, VA
If you couldn't get a paper copy of Mike's book (or even if you did have one and want updated and expanded info), check out his just released rakkup guide rakkup.com/guidebooks/smoke… Jul 29, 2016
HIGHLY recommend A Climbers Guide to Reeds Creek by Mike Gray. It's available on Rakkup for 3 or 4 bucks. It gives you 53 sport routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.12+, 12 trad routes from 5.7 to 5.10b, and a few top rope routes. The trail along the crag is well maintained with great shade from the trees during the day.

It was raining the morning we arrived in April but pretty much all of the climbing faces stayed pretty dry except for some top sections but the sun dried them out quickly. If you make your way down to the end you will find RUN-DMC cave with a couple of really fun routes but make a bunch of noise as you approach the mouth of the cave to give the large birds a chance to get out (possibly vultures?). Great area to rest for lunch or to escape rain or sun but the ground is covered in animal droppings so be aware. Also watch for some snakes in cracks along ledges above the cave mouth. Apr 22, 2017
Jeremy Hand
Northern VA
Jeremy Hand   Northern VA
Curious how difficult the approach is... not necessarily how strenuous but rather the difficulty in find the correct path. I've zero familiarity with WV. Dec 2, 2017
TyrelJ
Alexandria, VA
TyrelJ   Alexandria, VA
The approach is very easy to find. Unlike some areas, there is really only one trail. Additionally, the rakkup guides have a trail map with GPS capabilities. Dec 6, 2017