Elevation: 1,540 ft
GPS: 38.785, -79.288 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 59,412 total · 808/month
Shared By: wes calkins on Sep 7, 2014 with 7 Suggestions
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Description

Increasingly popular (and thus crowded) limestone sport climbing area with a few trad lines, located 10 miles north of the light in Franklin on Route 220. South facing aspects see all day sun. Many routes from 5.7 to 5.12, with the open project Cold Day in Hell checking in around 5.13+.

Getting There

Located near the northern terminus of reeds creek road and hwy 220 just south of the Upper Tract community. Limited parking is available: the gravel lot at the intersection is your best bet. Please park courteously.

Once on Reeds Creek Rd the cliff will be visible on the right. Additional limited parking can be found on the left in a small pullout and a quarter mile west at the bridge.

About five hundred feet up Reeds from the parking lot 220, you will find a small set of rock steps through the grass that grants access to the far right end of the cliff.

The first wall is the Gypsy Wall.

56 Total Climbs

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Location: Reeds Creek Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Reeds Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 36
Welcome to Reed's Creek
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 53
Superman
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 28
Second Rule
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 50
Winter Harvest
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 31
Internal Dialogue
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 42
Superwoman
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 45
Little Purple Flowers
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 22
Bridge Burner
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 30
Sea of Tranquility
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Reaching Conclusions
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
Still Laughing
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 21
Catfish Strangler
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 15
La Machina
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
Grapevine Massacre
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
The Big Show
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Welcome to Reed's Creek
 36
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Superman
 53
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Second Rule
 28
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Winter Harvest
 50
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Internal Dialogue
 31
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Superwoman
 42
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Little Purple Flowers
 45
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Bridge Burner
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sea of Tranquility
 30
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Reaching Conclusions
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Still Laughing
 20
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Catfish Strangler
 21
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
La Machina
 15
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Grapevine Massacre
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
The Big Show
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Reeds Creek »

Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: Southeast
Sunny Roughly 9am to 3pm during high season
6am
8pm
Details: A series of aretes and dihedrals, with thick canopy, sun exposure varies with season and time of day. Spring: hot and often sticky, summer leaves fill in but can still scorch, fall is gorgeous, and still winter days are perfect.

Weather Averages

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