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Routes in Reeds Creek

Apophis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Banzai T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bridge Burner S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buckaroo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Catfish Strangler S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chinese Arithmetic S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Dr Taco S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grapevine Massacre S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Harlem S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hunter's Moon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
I Ain't So Sure Hank Did It This Way T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Internal Dialogue S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
LIttle Khumbu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
La Machina S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Purple Flowers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reaching Conclusions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sea of Tranquility S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Second Rule S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shaolin Mantis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shorty Longback S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Skywalker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Still Laughing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stop the Presses S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Natural T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Superman S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Superwoman S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thieves in the Temple S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Welcome to Reed's Creek S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Winter Harvest S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 1,540 ft
GPS: 38.785, -79.29 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: wes calkins on Sep 7, 2014 with updates
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones
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Low key sport climbing area located between Franklin and Petersburg. Limestone cliffs similar in nature to franklin gorge. South facing aspects see all day sun. Many routes from 5.7 to 5.12?

Getting There

Located near the northern terminus of reeds creek road and hwy 220 just south of the Upper Tract community. Limited parking is available. Once on reeds creek rd the cliff will be visible on the right. Parking will be ahead on the left in a small pullout. Walk back down the road and find a small set of rock steps through the grass that grants access to the far right end of the cliff.

29 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Reeds Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Question about Black Label (11+ right of Block Magic).

Crux felt like 12b to me and there appears to be a fresh rock scar where a hold may have recently broken off at the crux. This was my first time here so I'm not familiar with the climb and I could certainly be mistaken. Just wondering if a local knew and could confirm or deny.

Thanks. And BTW, I really had fun on the routes near Catfish Stranglehold.

-Bob Oct 14, 2017
HIGHLY recommend A Climbers Guide to Reeds Creek by Mike Gray. It's available on Rakkup for 3 or 4 bucks. It gives you 53 sport routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.12+, 12 trad routes from 5.7 to 5.10b, and a few top rope routes. The trail along the crag is well maintained with great shade from the trees during the day.

It was raining the morning we arrived in April but pretty much all of the climbing faces stayed pretty dry except for some top sections but the sun dried them out quickly. If you make your way down to the end you will find RUN-DMC cave with a couple of really fun routes but make a bunch of noise as you approach the mouth of the cave to give the large birds a chance to get out (possibly vultures?). Great area to rest for lunch or to escape rain or sun but the ground is covered in animal droppings so be aware. Also watch for some snakes in cracks along ledges above the cave mouth. Apr 22, 2017
Alexandria, VA
TyrelJ   Alexandria, VA
If you couldn't get a paper copy of Mike's book (or even if you did have one and want updated and expanded info), check out his just released rakkup guide… Jul 29, 2016
Mike Gray's A Climber's Guide to Smoke Hole has a must-have (i.e., buy) map of Reed's Creek. Definitely a must buy to understanding this sport crag. Jun 15, 2015
Make sure to get a copy of Mike Gray's "A Climber's Guide to Smoke Hole Canyon" for additional route details. Feb 24, 2015

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