Type: Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Ben Tuszynski
Page Views: 2 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jarek Tuszynski on Sep 9, 2024
Admins: Pat Goodman, Ray Weber

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The route is mostly horizontal and zigzags across the ceiling of RUN-DMC cave. It is characterized by 3 moves (at bolts 1, 3 and 5) where the climber has to cut their feet and swing to the footholds on the opposing wall. The route is likely much harder to follow than to lead, as the bolts are placed to protect the leader.

Start at the back wall of RUN-DMC cave on a series of huecos. Clip the bolt at the roof and swing left to the opposing wall (5.9). Climb diagonally to the left to reach the ceiling and the second bolt. Follow good holds across the ceiling to clip the 3rd bolt (with permadraw). Stretch out to reach the invisible 3 finger pocket and use it to reach good holds further up. Cut feet and swing to the opposite wall (5.10+). Turn towards the mouth of the cave and to the 4th and 5th bolt. 

The crux move involves traversing right across the ceiling at the 5th bolt and looking for the invisible good hold while parallel to the ground held by an undercling and toe-heel cam in a crack. Once the hold is located cut feet and swing to the opposing wall and the anchors.

Location Suggest change

Start at very back of RUN-DMC cave 

Protection Suggest change

5 bolts (3 with permadraws) to anchor with 2 steel carabiners

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